Month: May 2017

Burgos is a beautiful city and it’s definitely worth the time to visit. The Cathedral is set up as not only a church but also a museum, done exceptionally well.

Burgos was also memorable because of Alex, a young German Police Officer from Berlin. We met Alex while doing laundry, well the machine was doing laundry, we were having drinks outside. Alex looked broken in every sense of the word, physically, emotionally, spiritually and psychologically.

I asked Alex if he was a Pilgrim and he said that he was. He was looking for a grocery store and the laundry, which he was standing in front of. To his credit, it was a door that opened into a larger room. We asked if he wanted to join us but, he said no but, he did not leave and, he continued to talk.

Alex was on a medical leave, I suspect for PTSD or something like it. His therapist had encouraged him to walk the Camino to clear his mind and reflect on his future. Alex was very frank and did not seem to hold anything back. We talked for close to an hour, Renee was very maternal, she told him “Mama says” this or that, Alex smiled and chuckled. We told Alex we’d be in the Plaza Mayor later and we’d like him to join us.

Later that night, Alex did join us and he we talked and exchanged stories. Alex was pushing very hard, 30, 35 and even 40 km a day, almost as if he wanted to be done or, he was punishing himself. Renee reminded him that it was a pilgrimage not a martyrdom. I think that caught his attention. Alex was sore and had blisters from ill fitting boots, he was looking for different shoes. He needed that but, he also needed to be more kind to himself.

We went to bed that night thinking about Alex, fearful that he would not heed our advice and hopeful that we’d see him again.

In an earlier post, I commented about the number of people looking for a better way, a new career, recovery from a bad relationship or maybe God. I think Alex learned that a good place to start is with his fellow Pilgrims.

We leave tomorrow, headed for Hornillos del Camino. We’re beginning the Meseta, the flat lands that will last about a week. It’s said that this part of the Camino is about the mind, lots of time to think with few distractions.

The walk into Burgos started off with such promise, it was cool and we all looked forward to the day off tomorrow. Leaving Ages, you walk past Atapuerca a UNESCO World Heritage site where they’ve found human remains dating back almost 800,000 year. Here’s a link: UNESCO Atapuerca site

In Atapuerca we also met Father Joyful. The Father is not a Father is any true religious sense, he’s walking the Camino because “The Master” told him to and, he’s doing it barefoot. I asked the “Father” if the “Master” spoke to him often, he said not really. I asked what he was told to do and he said walk to Santiago. Did he expect to hear from the “Master” again? Yes. What if he doesn’t? (This is for real) He said he would either go home and play bass for Florida-Georgia Line or, hang out in Spain until the authorities deport him! That’s our friend Timme (sp) with the Father.

As you leave Atapuerca, you start to climb to the Alto and then down through several small towns leading to Burgos. We met Tess the dog and her companion at one of the stops.

To get into the city you have 2 choices, we chose the river route versus the industrial route. Before we got to the river, had to walk around the airport and, if you don’t know it, it’s a long way around any airport. Next was a commercial area before entering what appears to be the never ending park. As we walked, I asked how far to the Cathedral and it was always 2 km no matter how far we walked.

We did finally make it in and our hotel, the Meson del Cid it’s very nice…it has sheets and towels, shampoo, soap and, we look directly onto the Cathedral.

I really needed the break, I´m nursing a very sore right knee. Doesn’t hurt while I´m walking but if I sit, I’m in significant pain until I get it warmed up. Hoping the day off helps.

Burgos Cathedral is impressive and very well restored, one of the best cathedrals I’ve ever visited and a site that should not be passed up if your ever in the area.

Ann started her Camino yesterday and we´ll meet her in Leon in about 10 days.

Forget the title, I did that just for Paul Gongora who tells his kids to never start a story with something like that.

We had a nice Apt. in Sto. Domingo for the price of an Albergue which was nice. On what is the new Main St., Calle San Roche and 2 blocks from the cathedral which is the historic center.

After the last couple days when the weather and countryside were so beautiful, today’s walk was a bit boring. Stopped in Azofra for my now regular Tortilla Espanola, cafe and OJ. Kittens all over who would eat bread or potatoes ( did you read that Boo?), they were fun to watch. I also caught up with the Kiwi’s, Carol and Letina.

The further we got, the less interesting it became. I noticed an old half timbered structure with massive old oak timbers and started to wonder how long they been in that building, 200, 500 years? Then, boredom talking, I became curious about how old the tree was that they felled to make that beam, 200, 500 years? Before Columbus? Was the tree growing before the Camino? Too much time does strange things to you but, still interesting.

Blisters on both heels, outside. The don’t hurt but are annoying. The clinic was open in the back of the Albergue Cuatro Cantones as the Pilgrims doctored their feet. Knees still slow to get started in the morning.

Beldorado doesn’t offer much, especially on a Sunday. The only way I knew it was Sunday is because it’s much slower in the towns, days don’t mean much, just the next stop.

Met Ed from Georgia and had dinner with him, seems like a nice guy. I haven’t met many jerks, The Camino I guess probably doesn’t appeal to certain types I guess.

Rene and Christa are here but I haven’t seen Sammi or Gabby, I expect they’ll turn up. While I enjoy meeting all the people, I do miss Susan.

Bedtime always comes early but tonight especially as we’re do close to 30km tomorrow with the possibility of some of it being in the rain. Rain means cool but it’s still walking in the rain.

Because it had been so hot, decided to splurge on a hotel in Najera and went with the *** Duques de Najera because they had A/C. Once we got checked in we discovered that, it did not work. They didn’t seem to care. Fortunately, it cooled down after a rain and after no sleep for 2 days, I slept well.

Leaving Najera, of course it started with a climb because what’s a morning without a hill? From there, it was some of the most beautiful countryside I’ve ever seen. The Camino snaked through it with a long line of Pilgrim ants far in the distance.

Azofra was the first stop for food, its hard to describe the need for food. It’s nothing like being hungry at dinner or wanting a snack. For me it’s a real need to eat. My favorite is OJ, tortilla espanola and a cafe con leche. It’s also a good time to check your feet and let them cool off. Small blister today and my right knee chirped at me all day.

Long climb through beautiful land to Ciruena and another break at a country club, nice looking golf course too. Grass under foot felt great too.

The last 2K in was industrial but Santo Domingo de la Calzada is rich in history including the chicken miracle, look it up, seriously.

Met up with Rene an Christa from South Africa and got to know them better which is one of the best parts. Sort of like speed dating I guess. Still fun. We had lunch and talked and shared notes.

Time for bed, my body must be adapting as it’s after 10:00.

Bam! About noon today, I hit the wall. Others have talked about it, I read about it but today, I experienced it.

After cruising along since I started the Camino with few physical complaints, today my knees hurt and I am just fatigued.

A major contributor was that I did not sleep at all last night. The Albergue Check In has A/C but turned it off at bedtime, it had to be in the high 80’s in the sleeping area or, as I now refer to it, The Sweat Box. Sweating all night is not a good formula for sleep.

It’s also getting hot so we start early, we were awake before 0500 the last 2 days.

Anyway, today it all caught up. We had 29 Km to do from Logrono to Najera, we made it to Ventosa and took a Taxi. I was broke down. As Renee puts it, it’s a pilgrimage not a martyrdom. While waiting, I did run in to Brian from Iowa, he’s wearing one of his knee braces, he offered me his other.

While waiting for our room, I was nodding off and in the lobby, I think I actually fell asleep in a chair. A little A/C should fix the sleep issue, the knees will just have to deal with it.

I’ve been pushing myself pretty hard, maybe I’ll back off a bit…maybe.

Tomorrow, Sto. Domingo de la Calzada with another hill, there always is.

Almost forgot, Ann and Robin are on their way! And, contrary to previous reports, the wolves did not claim Sammi in the mountains, we ran in to her yesterday and it was good to catch up.

Out the door at 0540 into relatively cool weather because it was a long and hot stretch. We walked together for a while and then we started to separate for pretty much the rest of the day. Great fields of grain, olive trees and vineyards.

Through Torres del Rio and with Viana on the horizon, I cruised into town looking to eat, rest and hydrate. My stop was directly across from the Iglesia de Sta. Maria, over 800 years old and overseen today by 2 matrons who kindly stamped our passport several times with different stamps, I’ll run out of space at this pace. They were very nice though.

L&R showed up as I was packing up and we talked for a few minutes, wanted them to relax, eat and hydrate.

When you have to climb into a town, you have to descend out. In this case, it was both up and down again as you immediately go into Torres del Rio. After that, Viana and finally Logrono. A long, hot grind.

I was cruising along at a good pace, nothing hurt and for a while, it was a gentle downhill slope. I’ve learned that there is always another hill and, true to form the Camino provided 40 minutes of a nice uphill climb.

From then on, it was mostly even with a little shade into La Rioja, serious wine country. We also entered the outskirts of Logrono and an industrial area. Like a rented horse, I could smell the stable and with one last climb, the city was in site…always look for the church…on the hill. Most notable is the Cathedral of San Bartolommeo. Walking into or out of large cities is the worst.

Logrono is a large city but during the siesta it almost seemed deserted. I did find our Albergue, the Check In Rioja. 10€, clean, friendly, nice bath/toilet no A/C. I may have forgotten to mention that it’s in the high 80’s to low 90’s. Not going to be a good sleeping night.

Plan to to roll out early again and with temps forecasted in the mid-90’s, were going to do what we can do. For now, off to try to sleep.

I’m trying to stay current and I’ll backfill the dates that I could not login as I go.

Puente la Reina is a really cool town, the Queens Brigde (Puente la Reina) is the big attraction built by Sancho III for his wife Dona Mayor. He wanted to make crossing the rio Agra safer for the Pilgrims. It’s six arches span the river that is much more swift since I crossed it in Zubiri.

History abounds in this part of Spain, walking today takes us down a Roman road and across a bridge built nearly 2000 years ago, most people miss it as they climb over it.

Estella is a bit larger city with an amazing amount of history, I got to experience exactly zero of that. This was home base for the Kings of Navarra and a major cathedral, now ruined, is here as well, I’m told.

We we got in about 2:00 PM and found lodgings at the Albergue Capuchino run by the Capuchin Brothers. Spartan in all senses of the word but clean and cheap. I knew that Leo was leaving in Estella but, I didn’t know that I would not get to say goodbye, somehow we got separated entering town and I never got to say goodbye to mi Hermano.

As as with most days, we were hungry and found a pizza place where we also enjoyed the best beer we’ve ever had…now a daily institution.

Estella – Los Arcos

My daily routine is get up, out the door by 0600, walk for 2 hours and find breakfast, tortilla espanola, juice and maybe cafe con leche.

Back in the harness for 2-3 more hours and hopefully we find someplace to stop and eat again, not too much, just enough for the final 1.5 hours or so.

My stop today was Los Arcos where staying at the Albergue Albeit, a real dump. We do at least have a room with 3 beds again so we only offend ourselves.

Out in the Plaza, we have a drink (or two), catch up with our Camino buddies while our laundry dries and find dinner. Mine tonight was peas with ham, a bistec with frites and ice cream for dessert. We’re burning on average 5600 calories per day so you stay hungry.

The last hour or so is spent cleaning up, checking you equipment (feet) and in my case, doing this. By 9:00, it will be lights out, assuming the sun cooperates. That is is pretty much a Pilgrims schedule. It’s hot, hot, hot!

Leo, who I met in SJPP is now in Torres del Rio and has to catch a bus to Sarria so he can finish up and get home. Didn’t get to say goodbye in person, I’ll miss him. I did though get to know a couple from Northern Ireland, Bernie and Nigel and so it goes. One door closes and another opens.

Leaving Pamplona and the traffic was a blessing. What we faced, was not. In the horizon, we could see the hills and wind turbines of the Alto del Perdon. Like churches on hilltops, we all knew that we were going to have to climb to the top, 790 meters at the top.

This was L&R ‘s first day and like the Pyrenees before, the climb is formatible and we all slogged up and up, some faster, some slower. In the end, we all made it.

The nasty part was the decent over jagged rock and loose, baseball and softball sized rocks. All of this to get to Puente la Reina.

The view in all directions was stunning and the sense of accomplishment I think was well deserved. Like my day 1, it was another challenge for everyone.

Our Albergue, the Jakue was just as your entered the town, it’s attached to a hotel so it’s a little better in some ways. We got a room with 4 bunk beds and had no one else with us, the extra space was quickly consumed by Leighton a his stuff just seems to multiply. Beers and laundry are in order, Leo and Donna ended up in a dorm so Donna used our shower…no waiting.

The Pilgrims ate at a buffet, fresh veggies, lots of food and bottomless wine…that’s probably not a good idea. It was a good evening but my bed is calling, long day tomorrow and it’s supposed to be hot.

Leaving Zubiri, we’re greeted with a gigantic concrete plant that is a blight on the countryside but the good people from Magna profess in multiple signs their commitment to the environment and the Camino. Blah!

After that, it’s once again quiet, dense and beautiful. Leo and I split up and as I was walking through a beautiful forested tunnel and my thoughts once again returned to ‘there’s always another hill’. As this was running through my mind, I turned a corner and after a long slight down hill decent, there was the first hill of the day which made me laugh, uncontrollably and with great joy.

People have said that on the Camino laughing and crying for no reason occurs regularly. I’ve experienced 1/2 of that already.

Leo and I reconnected somewhere along the way to Pamplona and then separated again. As I entered the city, I ran in to Donna filling her water and we walked and talked for a while soon to be joined by Leo.

They knew I was meeting L&R in Pamplona so there were questions about our friendship, how we met, how long ago, etc. We entered the city through the Portal de Francia only to be greeted by Renee at a table with a glass of wine. A sight for sore eyes…I was happy to see Renee too. 

We we all got settled, Leo and Donna found beds at and we already had beds at the Albergue Plaza Cathedral. Nice place, no A/C but they did laundry which I needed, badly.