Month: June 2017

We’ll, the great adventure has either ended or only just begun, physically, A Coruna to Lisbon and then on to JFK. I’ll be back in Dallas on Sunday. I’ve been told though that your Camino never ends unless, you allow it to. For me, I like the thought of a continuous process.

I’ve met so many people who will be with me forever. My first Camino friend Leo who I met the day I arrived in SJPP. Brian from Iowa, Donna from Florida. Last saw them in Estella on day 5. I met Dawn and Nallie from South Africa on Day 2 and bunked with them in Pamplona. I was lucky enough to walk most of the Camino with them and, I saw them in Finisterre with Sarah, Madison and G (Greg) on their last day. These Kids were introduced to me by the Professors, Steve and Chris from Texas, met them on day 2. We shared much of the Camino with them and had many good meals along the way.

The day I lost Leo and Donna is the day that I say I met Bernie and Nigel from Northern Ireland. We’d crossed paths many times but the evening we met in Estella having G&T’s is when I knew they were friends. They were the last of my Camino family that I saw as I left for A Coruna…how fitting.

Carol and Letina, the Kiwi’s…for New Zealand who I had the distinct pleasure of walking most of the Way with. I thought that I walked fast, Carol is fast! Saw them in Finisterre as well.

Alex, my brother, my son came along in Burgos, I’m very lucky to have met him he has inspired me in so many ways. My Camino would have been lacking were it not for his presence. I hope I gave him as much as he gave me.

There are others too, Ed from Atlanta, Saina from Cali, Sammi from England/Australia, Gabby, another Aussie. There are many, many more.

The last Camino friend I met was Katja from Frankfurt, like Alex, there are just some people that you are intended to meet. I have no idea if I’ll ever see her again but, the couple hours spent were important hours to me. It’s very hard to explain unless you’ve been on the Camino.

Of course, there’s the travelling band of Texan’s that were a constant on my Camino. Leighton, Renee, Ann, Rick, Paul and Becky. Thank you my friends…when do we go back?

Thank you to all my friends, old and new. Adios mis Amigos, hasta luego!

The last of the Pilgrims from my Camino finally went their separate ways. As we checked out of our hotel in Santiago, Rick was headed for Madrid and I was headed for A Coruna.

On my way out of the hotel, I found Nigel and Bernie. I think that it’s fitting that we meet last as they always seemed to pop up last as we (collectively) started drinks, dinner or whatever. I’ve expressed my fondness for them before, I don’t want to do that again out of self preservation.

A short train rain ride to A Coruna delivers me to a rainy, windy, cool city. No point in going out, it’s just plain nasty. It did finally let up a bit and I got out. After walking almost everyday for a month, sitting still makes me crazy.

Next day, 6/29, I could not stand my clothes any more and the thought of flying home in the exact same clothes I wore since 5/16, could not happen.

Cab to el Corte Ingles, fixed all that. A pair of light Khakis, a light blue Polo shirt and a very light weight Navy Blue sweater (it’s cold here) made all the difference. A pair of navy blue suede shoes looked so much better than my rain washed Keens. I hate shopping but I now know what Retail Therapy is.

On the Camino, each day we had a beer after we finished our walk for the day, we called it the best beer we’ve ever had in the world, today. Today, in A Coruna I’m alone so this is the worst beer I’ve ever had in the world, today.

I wore 1 pair of pants, 3 t-shirts, 2 pair of socks and 3 pair of skivies for 5 weeks so until you’ve done the same, don’t judge me!

My last walk in Spain was to the Tower of Hercules, a lighthouse built by the Romans to guide ships into the Port of A Coruna. Like Fisterra, this area is littered with wrecks that span the ages. This structure has been in use for almost 2000 years, incredible.

The man at the hotel desk offered to call a cab to take me there. After over 500 miles on the Camino, I figured I could make this last 10k on my own.

Packing my pack for the return is very different than packing to begin The Camino. While I was very good about packing what I needed and I used everything that I brought, I now find I’m throwing many things away, I just no longer need a potty-pack. Any weight loss will be made up for by adding my boots which have proven to be well worth the investment.

Sad and happy, I’m ready to be home with Susan, Ariel and Boo. I’m engaging with work and I look forward to that as well. The Camino has helped clear my mind.

Fly from LCG to LIS and then on to JFK tomorrow, can’t wait to get home!

With a 2 day bus strike going on, we hired a cab to take us to Santiago, riding in Ramon’s Mercedes with Rick, Nigel and Bernie is far better than the bus and it takes 1/2 the time. Pickup time is 1300.

Rick hasn’t been to the Faro so after a quick breakfast, we’re off to the top hoping to beat the rain which is forecast at near 100% later in the day.

We’d discussed with N&B walking up together and we found them having breakfast. Rick’s pace is slower than mine or theirs so we decided we’d meet at the top as we had a limited amount of time.

At the Zero KM marker, we were taking pictures and we met Rene from Canada who knew our Canadians, I’m constantly amazed by the web of aquainted people. While we were talking, Katja showed up. We all talked for a few minutes when N&B joined us, in their packs.

Short on time, we headed to the lighthouse so Rick could enjoy the view east towards both home and the end of the World. Or, maybe, east towards the rapidly approaching end of the Camino!

There is a frowned upon tradition of burning articles of clothing, socks are popular and many people still do it, we did not. As I walked down the cliff, I had an overwhelming feeling that needed to leave something there, I don’t know why.

Below me, someone had stuck their wood staff in a crack in the rock and I knew instantly that I needed to tie my bandana on that staff. Why it turned into an emotional moment, I don’t know. It was and still is a very satisfying decision. I took some pictures and others took pictures of me doing it, one said they knew it would be a memorable event.

Why a $4 bandana tied on an abandoned walking stick at the end of the World meant so much to me, I just can’t explain.

No time to linger, we need to get back to the hotel, clean up, check out and back to Santiago. Just above town, it started to rain. Below town, it started to rain hard. My Keens were soaked, on this final day on my Camino, it’s like a ritual cleansing of 32 days of Camino dust from my boots. Like the Camino is telling me, you’re done.

Almost no rain of any significance for a month which I’m thankful for because walking in wet boots and socks sucks. It’s supposed to rain and be cool/cold for the remainder of my stay in Spain. It is time to go home.

After saying goodbye to Dawn, Nallie and the Sarah, Madison and Greg, the A&M kids , I’m pretty much on my own until Rick shows up. That’s an odd feeling on the Camino.

Decided to walk to the Faro, about 5km. It’s interesting that now, walking 5km, 10 round trip isn’t even something you think about. That’s a little over 6 miles.

Walking from my hotel is about 1.5 km to Fisterra and another 3.5 to the lighthouse, all basically up hill.

As I head up and out of town, the pavement finally ends and the familiar crunchy sound of crushed stone under my boots begins. Walking on paved roads is hard and boring.

There are 2 of us, me and a woman, making our way up this early morning, we pass each other as we pause to enjoy the incredible views and to take pictures.

About 1/2 way up, there’s one last statute of a pilgrim, climbing to the end of the World. We stop to take pictures and, as is so common on the Camino, we ask if they will take a picture and then return the favor.

These interactions are often the beginning of a conversation and it was in this case. Katja is from Frankfurt and spoke English better than I do.

We climbed up towards the summit and talked which makes the time fly. Before we knew it, we were at the zero KM marker, the end of the World. Of course we took pictures.

Katja shared that her mother had passed away, we talked about that for a while. When we got to the Faro, we both separated and found spots to reflect on our journey in the greater sense.

I thought about how lucky I was to be here and all the people that made it possible. I thought about Grandma Jones and what I would have liked to shared with her. A flood of emotions came over me like a wave.

Katja and I had a coffee, she too had similar feelings about her mother, she’d carried a rock for her and had found an appropriate spot for it. We were lucky that it was early before the tour buses arrived.

As as it turns out, she knew some of the same people I did. She had walked with a group of Canadians, another German and an American that we’d crossed paths with over the last month. Small Camino.

The walk down took no time and we found ourselves in town discussing the pending bus strike and how we planned to get back to Santiago. We had lunch at a vegetarian (not exclusively) restaurant and it was one of the best meals I’ve had in Spain, period. La Frontera across from the bus station.

I had a tomato and onions salad with fresh herbs (you don’t get fresh herbs much in Spain) and a curry rice wth veggies, I was in Nirvana.

After lunch, we went our separate ways only to find ourselves thrown together again as the the remaining Canadians showed up, waiting for Sandra, who was walking as I was waiting for Rick who was also walking. It’s interesting how small the Camino is and how intertwined it is.

Rick rolled in, I fed him a beer and he related how he got lost on the way in the dark and basically walked an hour or so only to end up where he started.

The Hotel Playa Langosteria had 1 last room, a Jr. Suite, long way from an Albergue, it had a jacuzzi tub, which he took full advantage of.

After some rest, back into town for dinner with the Canadians, Katja, Carol and Latina (the Kiwis) and, Bernie and Nigel showed up too, the last reminants of my traveling village.

I truly like the Kiwis. Carol cracks me up with her dry sense of humor and Latina’s smile I will never forget. They are a mismatched set that belong together.

Bernie and Nigel, Mutt and Jeff, tall and short and inseparable. She is your mother one minute, your sister the next and a mischievous imp all the others. Nigel, comes across as very straight but has a mad (not crazy) funny streak to him. Combined, they make a formidable team. Their love of travel is shared. They insisted on wearing their backpacks to the end. I’m in awe.

Dinner is made better by the company, a sense of gloom is heavy in my heart though as you realize that these moments have a shelf life that’s rapidly approaching.

I said my good nights, 4 of us plan to take a taxi back to Santiago because of the bus strike. Katja and Sandra may stay but Bernie and Nigel will take their place.

Rick and I plan to go back to the Faro tomorrow, I hope the rain holds off.

As quickly as Susan arrived, she left just as quickly for France this morning. It’s a shame because Santiago is a beautiful city.

We did have a very nice evening out, Susan and Leah got to meet several of my Camino family, that made me very happy. We were out late, apparently they’re going to burn witches tomorrow night, I don’t know why.

For me, it was a bit disorienting because there was no schedule to follow, no Camino to walk. You become so accoustomed to basically doing the same thing day after day that it’s very difficult when you just stop.

My morning consisted of breakfast and going to the Pilgrims Office to get my Compostella. I’m not a religious person and unlike some, I would not lie to get my Compostella.

Waiting in line, I met Maria from Slovakia who began her journey in Sarria. When she started, she thought she would be done and on. She now feels that she may need to do more. I told her that ‘you’ve finished, now you need to begin’.

As my turn approaches, I see Thomas from NC, had not seen him since Cruz de Ferro. We exchanged smiles across the courtyard.

Im called to position 10 and to my surprise, it’s Katherine from Monte del Gozo, she was surprised that I remembered her, she recalled meeting the Texans. She was very nice and tried to find a Latin equivalent for Keith, no luck. She asked me about my experience on the Camino and asked what my motivation was and I told her I wanted to reflect on my first 60 years and plan for the next 60. Apparently, that’s good enough. Total distance logged by the office, 799 km.

Whiled away the day, had lunch at the market where you pick the seafood or meat in the market and they’ll cook it for 5€, a good meal.

The party is just getting started as we head to dinner, Italian tonight and it was very good, the hot fresh bread and herb butter was a hit. Gelato after and we headed to bed.

Couldn’t stay in, I wanted to see the witches but never found them. The city is full and vibrant from the energy of the locals celebrating and the Pilgrims hoping to join in. I couldn’t make it past 12:30 and I strolled back to the Monumental San Francisco Hotel which is part of a Convent, a beautiful place.

Still trying to understand all of this.

We started off our final official day on the Camino Francais in an overcast and threatening sky. I thought that it was interesting that I started on day 1 under similar skies.

Our Pension in O Pedruzo was nice, plenty of space and better than we’d become accustomed to. It was s bit off the Camino but better than the alternatives.

We were out early, most very tired, the early Pilgrims truly tired and hurting, the Camino limp affecting 3 of us. The newer Pilgrims realizing that it’s harder than it seems, walking…

Paul in particular seems both weary but contemplative, that occurs on the Camino. Becky is a machine and always seems to have a smile.

No breakfast this morning and off we go into the dark. Of course there was a good morning climb, the norm for this part of the Camino. 3k in, there’s a opportunity for breakfast, we pass it up not knowing it will be 8k more before we eat.

After our walk around the airport, we are now very close to Santiago, our long sought goal. We’re all happy to be near our final destination but, we’re also sad as we know our time on the Camino is drawing to an end.

I have 2 goals, reaching Santiago and seeing Susan again and they’re both intertwined and commingled because without her, I would not have been able to do any of this.

At Monte del Gozo (Mount of Joy), you have your final chance to get your second and final Sello for the day before entering the city. The Capilla de San Marcos is staffed by volunteers from around the world who pay their own way and work really hard for several weeks, we spoke with Katherine from Mass., she was surprised by 7 Texans walking together.

As we headed into the city, the rain picked up and I was forced to put my rain gear on, fortunately, it was still very cool. I´d walked most of the day in the light mist in my shorts and t-shirt but this was more than a mist.

Just outside the Porto do Camino, we all paused to let our stragglers catch up, we wanted to complete our journey together. I also called Susan to let her know we were very near.

Entering the city, I tried to imagine the impression that it must have had on the early pilgrims whose journey was far more difficult than mine. What would they have seen, heard and based upon my experience, smelled.

To enter the Praza do Obradorio, you continue down a steep flight of stairs, you´re greeted with bag pipes playing and the sounds of pilgrims from around the world celebrating their accomplishment.

We all entered the Praza and I was looking for Susan who was in the middle of the Praza with Leah. I walked towards her and dropped my poles and hugged her for a long time, I´d missed her so much.

Pictures were taken, hugs exchanged, hands shaken. We immediately started looking for others that we knew. I found Steve and Chris, Chris was crying too. Yes, I said too as I was tearing up from time to time too.

One of the better days of my life and I hope that I get to experience this type of joy and sense of accomplishment again in my life. I´ll be writing more about that soon, I want to process all of these thoughts and feelings first.

Arzua to O Pedrouzo was a short day for us, only about 20k and with another 5:30 start, I got in at a little after 11:00. Walking today was for the most part a breeze with the exception of a few long downhill stretches that just punished my knee.

More importantly, I focused on the things I’ve done, the people that I’ve met and how I’ll process all of this after we arrive in Santiago.

We’re organizing a get together with as many Camino friends as we can round up, it will be a celebration and a last farewell. How can I explain this to Susan and Leah? How can I explain it to anyone who has not experienced this type of comraderry?

The he walk into Santiago tomorrow is not beautiful or particularly difficult and the weather will be cool, finally. It will be one of pride and sorrow that I had not anticipated when this all began a month ago.

I want to hug my wife and tell her I love her. I want to savor the moment with my friends and fellow Pilgrims. I want to shave and put on some different clothes, shopping may be in order.

I dont want to forget any of this but I will.

I went to bed not knowing what was happening with Susan & Leah, flight connections, would they come, etc. it made for a fitful nights sleep.

If nothing else, the Camino provides a routine that you can count on and I relied on it today as we got up at 5:00 and took off from Palas de Rei and headed for Arzua.

The regulars were up and out early, the Mexican’s, the German lady, and a pack of Italians. Paul, Becky and I joined them as we headed into the dark, headlights leading the way. And of course, a climb and descent first thing.

Hoping Susan found a flight occupied a fair amount of my morning, we came into an Albergue that had WiFi, hoping for some news, the good news arrived in the form of an Expedia confirmation which definitely lifted my spirits.

I wrote earlier about the Camino Effect which causes people to laugh for no reason at all, this happened to me on day 2 or 3 which seems so long ago.

The flip lip side is that it also causes people to cry, sometimes uncontrollably. The news that Susan may not be able to meet me caused me to well up and even relating it later had the same effect. For the last 10 days, seeing her had become my focus. It got me through some very tough and painful days.

With my spirits lifted, a miserable, long and hot day got better. The entire Way today was a constant roller coaster of ups and downs and the heat was relentless punctuated with hordes of Pilgrims.

I’ve commented before about how draining entering and exiting cities can be, the 32k slog into Arzua was no different. Too many Pilgrims on booked tours made finding accommodations difficult and we were about 2/3 of the way in before we arrived at ours.

Our Albergue, The Way, was truly worth the walk. It was new construction which included A/C, the first time I’ve had a cool room since the first 3 days when it was in the 30’s and 40’s. No bunk beds, power plugs and higher speed internet, something for everyone.

We’ve been thinking about it, the end of our Camino. What it’s meant to each of us, what we’ll take away from it, the people we’ve met.

Many of us met for dinner, others passed by and stopped to chat. It was a joyful 2 hours topped off with Gelato with Carol and Latina, the Kiwis.

Back in our climate controlled room, knowing that Susan and Leah will be in Spain shortly after I start walking for my next to last day makes me think this will be a great nights sleep, one of few over the last many weeks. The picture pretty much illustrates my mood change.

Leaving Portomarin was again done in the dark and included the requisite climb to get the heart pumping. It was not however the roller coaster of the day before.

We walked in overcast most of the day with a cool breeze from time to time, all in all a good walking day.

The exception was, all the new Pilgrims. Having grown used to a lot of silence and the usual trekkers, now there are dozens and even hundreds of “minimalist Pilgrims “, those doing the final 100k to get their Compostella.

It’s their Camino too but it’s distracting, I won’t use disappointing but some would. They travel in packs, loud, some rude and all in a hurry. I hope they find some contentment.

Paul, Becky and I rolled through the countryside at a good pace, I think Paul’s getting a feel for the wear and tear, the general fatigue of the Camino. At this point, the rest of us know it well.

Headed into Palas de Rei, we ran into Nigel and Bernie and Carol and Latina, always good to see them. Steve and Chris are only a half day ahead and we should catch up tomorrow.

Got a a text from Susan, travel delays on the east coast, stranded in Nashville and will miss their flight from JFK. There’s a possibility that she may not come because of the cost to change her ticket. I can’t say how hard this hit me, I’ve looked so forward to seeing her after 5 weeks. It’s hard to think about it and it changes how I feel about the last many weeks.