Reality (Sahagun-El Burgo Ranero-Mansilla de las Mulas)

The Camino has a way of both enthralling you and boring you to death. For days, the most beautiful cities, Pueblos and countryside And then, the most tedious trekking you could imagine.

It’s said that the first third is about the body (getting into Camino shape) and the second about the mind (the tedious meseta). The second part challenges both as you have time to think about how much this or that hurts and, how boring this section is.

We taxied from Sahagun to El Burgo Ranero to eliminate some of the tedium, it only slightly helped. Our walk today took us across the longest stretch that just never changed. Past a small airport at Villamarco and all I had to focus on was Bar Elvis in Religiegos, a local legend. I kept reading and hearing how cool it was. In reality, it’s a dump. We went next door to Bar Gil for lunch. If you ever wondered what exactly the middle of nowhere looked like…

The middle of nowhere, Spain.

Mansilla de las Mulas is a sleepy little town with lots of history, Roman walls and bridge, medieval buildings and a gothic church. Most Perigrinos will never see them. We’re staying at the Albergue Gaia, it’s 5 euros and breakfast is donativo, pay what you can or what you feel it’s worth. These first breakfast are usually small, coffee, toast and maybe some OJ.

Leon tomorrow, 17k through mostly industrial zones and suburbs, the old city is supposed to be beautiful so I’m looking forward to that. Sheets and towels will be nice too. Ann will be meeting us there.

Concerned about my knee, icing and time off in Leon will help. With the Galacian hills coming up, I need to do everything I can to preserve it.

I miss Susan and can’t wait to see her in Santiago even if it is only for the day. Sleeping in my bunk bed alone after 30 years is getting old fast.

Saw some familiar faces today, as the pool gets more diluted with people starting and stopping the reunions are fewer and further between.

New Irish friend, Eamown. Doing the Camino on stages, has to head home on Sunday but will come back to finish up next year. 2 English couples that we met are doing the same, Leon is their final stage.

I have not met many people on the Camino that I did not like, met one today, Dave, an American who was probably the most annoying person I’ve ever met. Working while walking the Camino, using his computer in his Albergue at night while others are sleeping or, trying to. Invited himself to join us for drinks and then, dinner. Glad to be rid of him.

12 bunks in our room, some sleeping, some reading and me, blogging while icing my knee. Still don’t know what fascinates me about this whole thing. I just know I need to do it and I’m thankful for the opportunity.

The Italians and French are fighting over open window or closed, it’s very hot in this room and apparently, the Italians won so the window will be closed. They’re superstitious and think that evil spirits will come through the window. Now I’ve heard it all.

It’s D-Day today and I want to thank my Son in Laws for their service, I love them both and worry about them constantly.

Time me to join my snoring bunk mates in sleep.