Lost Maples…found self

After months of almost no outdoor activity, I finally got a long weekend of hiking in the Hill Country of Texas.  For those who don’t know, the Hill Country is in south-central Texas west of Austin and San Antonio.  It’s rough but beautiful country which looks dry but has many natural springs and spring fed rivers running through deep cuts and canyons.  I think you either love it or hate it.  I love it.

Texas Hill Country

We spent our long weekend at the Lost Maples State Natural Area which is near Vanderpool.  Vanderpool is basically a crossroads with a Post Office and a Catholic Church and that’s it.

Our cabin was about a mile from the park entrance and my friends, The Professors (Chris & Steve) were staying in their RV they call Ted about 3 miles away.  The general social hub was our cabin which my friend and hiking buddy Ann shared.

This time of year, the weather is variable, and it certainly was on this trip.  Friday was warm, 85/30 and partly cloudy.  The clouds did burn off later in the day and the Texas sun did make its presence known.

The park is not huge, relatively, and has two primary trails, the West Trail and the East Trail with a smaller West Loop Trail and the East-West Trail which connects the trails. A short trail, the Maple Trail is the very scenic trail with a grove of Maple trees which are beautiful during the Fall.  We started our day Friday on the Maple trail which parallels part of the East Trail before merging with it.  A small stream and the Maple grove separates the two.

The beginning of the hike was relatively level as you walk along the very rocky path, limestone rocks and boulders are tread on, over and around.  A fall would be painful, and your feet feel each step, even in good boots.

In Texas, you always have to keep your eyes open

This part of the hike rewarded us with getting to see Monkey Rock.  This is a totally naturally occurring formation created by the limestone being eroded by both wind and water…it really does look like a monkey.

Monkey Rock

From there, we began a steep uphill climb, more like a scramble and over a relatively short distance, we climbed about 500 feet/150 m up the rocky face to the plateau.  We discovered or, accepted that we were not in the condition that we once were.  I was happy though that I did well and that my right knee gave me no problems.

From this high plateau, we could take in the incredible views in all directions with almost nothing man-made to interrupt the scene.  This is what the Native Americans saw and what the Spaniards feared as they crossed this part of Texas looking for El Dorado.

Up to the plateau

The descent was more treacherous than the ascent and the trail that we saw from the top which looked easy, was not.  The trail ended at a clear pool created by several springs making their way to the Sabinal River.  The East-West trail took us to our car marking the end to an adventurous 4.5-hour hike.  We were tired, a bit sore, hungry and I was looking for the best beer I’d ever had in the world, today.

Long way up or down
the best beer…you know the rest

As I mentioned before, the weather in Texas is quite variable this time of year and later in the evening, as we prepared fajitas and margaritas as cold front that was supposed to stall further north moved through the area bringing some mist, gusting winds and much cooler weather.  The morning was going to be quite cool, about 49/10.

As promised, the weather was cool with low clouds and some light winds.  A breakfrast of Gallo Pinot would be just what was called for.  Gallo Pinto is a hearty rice and black bean staple from Costa Rica, its good.  Becky and her friend Joy joined us and after breakfast, we left for the park.

To begin this hike, we would retrace part of our hike the day before up the East-West trail where we would branch off on to the West Trail.  We’d walk gently up hill following a dry creek bed through a canopy of Oak, Big Tooth Maple, Bald Cypress and Sycamore trees.

As always, there was a steep climb up to the plateau and a short walk across the mesa and then a sharp decent into the Mystic Canyon, it is appropriately named.  Deep down, in the quiet, you could hear the gentle gurgle of a hidden spring fed creek as it ran down the canyon.  The limestone was carved by eons of water rushing past illustrating how dangerous it would be to be caught in a downpour and flash flood.

Water carved cave

As we made our way gently downhill, through the trees and under-story, we came across a beautiful spring and pool with crystal clear, cool water.  In this part of Texas, water meant life for all creatures and I’m sure this area was visited by all type of creatures including humans.

We relaxed and enjoyed the simple beauty and enjoyed the soothing sound of water running over the rocks and falling lyrically into the pool. 

We could see through the trees that the sun was beginning to burn through the clouds, and it threw gentle shadows on the leaves of the forest floor.  Light flickering here and there and darting from place to place.  Lending more credence to the name, Mystic Canyon.

We began our walk out of this canyon with streams and fern lined grottos following the well-worn path to the spring pool where we once again found the East-West Trail and on to the parking area.

We sat and talked for a while, Becky and Joy left to explore the area and we left to clean up, have some lunch and figure out how to spend the rest of what had become a beautiful day.

Some may find it strange that Texas is the number 2 producer of grapes for wine after California and this are is full of vineyards and wineries.  The area is very rocky and like parts of southwest France except it gets much hotter and the harvest occurs in July.

Near our cabin, the Lost Maples Winery called to us.  Outdoors, in a shaded and physically distanced setting, we purchased a couple bottles of wine and wiled away the afternoon enjoying the autumn day, the sunshine and company, it was time well spent.

Cheers!

I thoroughly enjoyed my trip to Lost Maples, and I hope to return there soon, maybe with Leighton and Renee who stayed home and were working as volunteers at a voting place.

I needed this escape physically, mentally and emotionally.  2020 with CV-19 and the election here in the U.S. has taken its toll.  A year lost to CV-19, separation and fear add up to a lot of stress.

But, with that said, I want to leave you with 10 seconds of calm…

10 Seconds of Calm

#Covidiots

I’m currently sitting in our Condo in Destin, Florida surrounded by Covidiots from many of the surrounding states including Alabama, Mississsippi, Georgia and others I’m sure.

The residents of Florida and the surrounding states have railed against the requirements regarding the Corona Virus 19. Most of these states have very few restrictions regarding physical distancing and the wearing of masks. Sadly, their infection rates reflect that reflect their lax attitude.

We arrived on Thursday having travelled through Texas, Louisiana, Mississippi, Alabama and finally across the panhandle of Florida. While both Texas and Louisiana seemed to be adhering to some protocols, the minute we arrived in Mississippi, we were surrounded by Covidiots.

No masks or, masks on chins, groups of people hanging out together often arriving in trucks with either a Trump or NRA bumper sticker, sometimes both.

We’ve tried to be very careful while here, masks on all the time, no dining out, takeout only, no shopping except for essentials for the condo. We wanted to see our son in law before he left.

I went to pick up breakfast from a place called the Donut Hole Bakery & Restaurant yesterday morning. When we got there, Susan stayed in the car, there was a line of unmasked people waiting to get in. Fortunately, the line was for indoor dining (no masks required and few seen except on the staff) and there was a separate line for takeout.

I placed my order and sat, arms crossed, touching nothing, with my mask on. As I sat there, I realize how uncomfortable I was around these people who clearly care nothing for their health or that of others. For the first time since the pandemic started, I felt uncomfortable even unsafe.

We came here for one reason and one reason only and I cannot envision any reason that I would want to come back. People who show so much disregard and even ignorance are not the people I want to be around and if this is what the State of Florida stands for, I see no reason to spend any money here.

They call this area of Florida the Redneck Riviera for good reason, in my estimation, it’s overachieving in that regard. Sadly, many of these backwards morons probably have no insurance and when they become sick, they will be the first at the hospital crying for help paid for by others because they were too damn dumb to take simple precautions. Don’t get me wrong, I believe in universal healthcare but, that requires all participating in the expense that comes with that coverage. I may be wrong but most people here probably refer to universal healthcare as a socialist take over. If they ever need it though, they’ll be begging for a little “socialism”. That’s and editorial but it is my blog.

I’m sorry for this dark post but, it is sad and scary to see such low regard for the realities of COVID. These people are making choices and they are bad choices.

Back home to Dallas on Monday, not much better but…

Normalcy?

Yesterday, I finally felt a sense of normalcy, outside with friends, experienced Pilgrims and soon-to-be Pilgrims.  For a brief while, on the trail, no masks but a respectable distance it seemed like BC (Before COVID).

The Professors were taking a group of students back to Huntsville State Park, the last place we went BC.  This group of students with the exception or Roy from our February trip was a new group.

Three of them are going to go with Chris to Spain and the Camino next year, maybe?  All depends on the state of the world and vaccines as well as humans behaving themselves for the next 9-10 months.  I was encouraged that some just wanted to hike and had heard about Chris on campus so, they joined in too.

It’s encouraging that even with the state of the world currently, these young people are still optimistic about getting to go to Spain next May.  They were excited and curious and maybe a bit concerned about being in shape.

We didn’t walk 10 miles/16k this time and it’s a good thing, unused legs, knees and feet reminded most of us that we’ve not been as active as we needed to be.  I may not still deserve my Ziegenbruder nickname but, I’m going to hold on to it anyway.  Even with this, when we finished, Ann produced the best beer I’ve ever had in the world…today.  It was a good day, I’m glad I could go down, if only for the day.

For those 6 hours, I could remember what it had been like before this plague and looked forward to the day that we can once again go out, hike, go to dinner or the theatre or just speak with a neighbor, without a mask.

I will not and have not resisted the reality, I know that resistance is futile and, it only hurts me.  So, I look towards the future and our trip to Lost Maples State Natural Area in the Hill Country and to the future free of CV-19.

Ever the optimist

While you may not be able to tell from my last many posts, I am actually a quite positive person.  Yes, many things have conspired to drag me down or, at least try to drag me down, I’ve decided that I will not allow that to happen.

To begin anew, I’ve decided to order new credential(s) for my long Camino in the Fall of 2023.  I ordered the Irish Credential, I saw on in 2017 and knew I needed one. I know, you can say, why get them now?  It’s a long time until the Fall of 2023 and, you’d be correct, it’s a bit over 3 years.

But, I’m optimistic and, it gives me something to look forward to, to plan for and to dream about.  Isn’t that really what living is about?  What’s next?  Where to?  When do we leave?  Why do I have to wait so long?

I’ve written previously about this long Camino, beginning in Lourdes and then taking the Camino Aragones through the Somport Pass and joining the Camino Francés in Puente la Reina.  From there, slowly meandering our way across Spain.  Looking for side trips, the road less travelled.

My friend Ann and I have talked about doing this, maybe mid-September to mid-November, a change of weather and seasons would be nice.  Maybe, I can convince Susan to join us.  I would be a miracle worker if I could do that but, I am an optimist.

Not having a true time constraint is going to be something to get used to, that factor was a motivation of its own, I always knew that I had to be finished by some date.  I guess my airline reservation will be my motivation, tickets can be changed though.

Who knows, maybe I’ll even volunteer as a Hospitalero, I’m very sure Susan will not get on board for that but, one can hope.

Sorry for the negativity, I’ll strive to be more forward thinking and continue to work on equanimity.

Always Dreaming

The bottle of wine pictured above caught my attention and my mind was off to the races.  Ever the optimist and always dreaming, I spent some time this past weekend thinking about my return to France and Spain for what will probably be my last walk on the Way.  While it’s given me so much, there are still other quests calling out to me, one of them are countries which begin with ‘S’.

My friend and fellow pilgrim, Ann, and I have talked about going back after we retire to take a slower walk, maybe a saunter, down the Camino.  While driving back from our Huntsville State Park walk with the Professors and Chris’s students, I told her about maybe starting further in France and then walking to Saint Jean Pied de Port before tackling the Camino Francés or, skipping SJPP altogether.

I’m researching two options.  First would be the Piemont Route or Pyrenean Route from Lourdes across the French Pyrenees to SJPP. 

Piemont Route
Piemont Route

The second would be the Camino Arogonés from Somport in France to Puente la Reina skipping Pamplona all together.  Maybe visiting Lourdes before hitting the Camino Arogonés.

Camino Arogones

We also talked about taking it more slowly and travelling more of the side routes.  With option one instead of taking on the Pyrenees in one day, maybe stopping in Orisson for a short day and a new experience for me.  Those of us who have done SJPP to Roncesvalles, we know that getting to Orisson is half the battle even though it’s only about ¼ of the distance, it’s like climbing a ladder.  Option two would eliminate Pamplona altogether.

Besides the side routes, I’d like to possibly spend a day in Pamplona (Option 1), we didn’t do that last time.  I’d skip Los Arcos and maybe continue on to Torres del Rio and push through Logorño to Navarrete.  Or maybe, just toss the book and do whatever we want each day.  Some of my friends’ question if I’m capable of that.  I think not having time constraints will help me overcome some of that need to plan…we’ll see.

I was thinking 8 weeks for this venture but, that all depends upon what Susan says, I have little doubt that she will not be interested in joining us but, you never now.  To quote Father Frank from the movie The Way, “it’s said that miracles occur out here, on the Camino”.  While I don’t believe in miracles…

Fifty-six days on the Camino, 4 days for travel, I like the sound of that.  Ann and I also discussed going during a different time of year, late summer into early fall sounds very appealing.  Watching the seasons change in Spain, especially later along the way in the mountains heading into Galicia sounds wonderful.  Maybe start on my birthday, September 16th with a finish in mid-November.

Retirement is still a way off but, it gives a fellow something to dream about.  More as it develops.

P.s. If you’re interested, John LLoyd, a regular contributor to the Casa Ivar blog has taken his journal and published it along with pictures from his 2018 Camino. I’ve just started it, it’s an interesting read so far and brings back a lot of good memories. Available on Amazon (what isn’t?), the link is to Casa Ivar and some info. https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/go-your-own-way-following-in-the-footsteps-of-martin-sheen-on-the-way-of-st-james.67429/

Then the Wheels Came Off

Anyone who knows me will attest that when it comes to travel, I am an enthusiastic planner. I mentioned some months ago that the planning is part of the journey for me. And this year was going to be no different.

Then, the wheels came off the wagon that is our world. Our trip to France to cruise the Canal du Midi which was originally planned for early May and getting us back yesterday (May 21st) had to be rescheduled for September but, Mother Nature in the form or CV-19 had other plans. You may have noticed, I’ve added a new category, Whining. Should have done it long ago.

I’ve mentioned several times that mi Amiga, Katja was scheduled to come visit and would have arrived today but, that is not to be. We’d talked about the timing of her visit, earlier rather than later because it gets hot fast in Texas this time of year. Last week, it was already 103/40 in parts of west Texas where Big Bend is located.

Another cruel trick has been played upon us, the weather for the Big Bend is forecast to be beautiful next week which is why I used that as my featured image, who doesn’t need a little more torment? Temps like that this time of year are rare. Mother Nature piling on.

So, how does one remain positive when the wheels come off? After 2.5 months of stay at home, virtual Happy Hours and mask wearing, it’s tough. Even a 10 hour drive to west Texas sounds really good right now but, Big Bend National Park won’t reopen until June 1st.

So, I listen to people who are far wiser than I am. They said like the Camino, Texas will not go away, nor will Big Bend and, true friendships endure.

So, to everyone who was planning to make the trek out to Big Bend, there’s always next year or, the one after and so on…

Ultreia!

The Stars at Night…

This week was supposed to be the beginning of a great couple of weeks. One of my Camino friends, my Omega friend from my 2017 Camino Frances, Katja was scheduled to fly in to Dallas to begin her first trip to the United States and the great State of Texas.

She was to arrive on Friday and after a short visit in Dallas including a Katy Trail walk, we (most of the Texas Pilgrims) were headed to the Big Bend and Big Bend National Park. We scheduled an overnight in Marfa for a little culture (west Texas style) and maybe the Marfa Lights.

After that, 3 days of hiking and outdoor adventures in a part of Texas that is remote, wild, beautiful and very different. When they wrote the lyrics to Deep in the heart of Texas, they were surely thinking of the Big Bend when they wrote, “the stars at night are big and bright“, there are few places in America that have so little light pollution.

The Chisos Mountains, Santa Elena Canyon, Emory Peak, Pinnacles Trail and many more. It would have been an excellent adventure and probably something the likes of which she’d never seen. Many Texan’s haven’t either, including Becky who was going to be part of the posse.

After our trek to Big Bend, Katja was heading off on her own to see Carlsbad Caverns, San Antonio, Austin and the Hill Country then, back to Dallas and home to Germany. The Texas Pilgrims could not join her on this adventure as we had to be back in Dallas for the wedding of another Pilgrim, Mr. G to Christina. That wedding date unfortunately had to be rescheduled.

Life is a funny thing and it reminds me regularly just how little control we have in the big picture. A virus, the novel CoVid-19, something that I heard described as being the closest thing there is to being both biological and chemical, has killed hundreds of thousands, about 1/3 of them here in the U.S. Besides the loss of life, economies are in tatters, friends and families separated, weddings postponed and yes, holidays cancelled. But, we will get through this. Friendships will endure, holidays and weddings can be rescheduled and hopefully jobs regained. For those who lost loved ones, we collectively grieve for them.

For my friend Katja, I hope we can one day show her the wonders of the Big Bend. If not, I hope that we meet again somewhere with dusty boots and big smiles but, that may not be. So my sister, your presence will be missed, Texas would not have known what hit it. Be strong, your Ziegen Bruder will miss you as will all your other Texas friends. ¡Hasta luego!

Here’s a taste of what awaits you Big Bend.

Having a Camino on your doorstep

I mentioned in an earlier post the my friend Nigel had some great pictures of his local Camino and that I’d share them with his permission, he’s graciously given me permission, they’re some great pictures. Thank you!

Sunrise at Smeltmill Bay
Crawfordsburn Beach
Bernie at Crawfordsburn Beach
Helen’s Bay Beach
Coach Road from Helen’s Bay
Coach Road beneath railway bridge
7 – Ballysallagh Lane
7 – Ballysallagh Lane II
Sawmill Woods
Camino sign in Helen’s Tower forest
Helen’s Tower
Bangor Abbey
St Malachy’s Wall 1121 AD

Speed Trippin SJPP to Roncesvalles

A veteran member of the Casa Ivar blog, @davebugg, has posted a well done video of Day 1 of the Camino Frances from Saint Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles which includes the full walking video with maps, elevation and incline information (although apparently it only went to 15% when some of it is almost 22%). For the wannabe or the hard core, it’s worth a look. https://youtu.be/RvFCv8aJKcQ

For those who have never done it, the video is about 1.5 hours, my trip took me about 9.5 hours. I hope you enjoy their work.