June 2018

Dublin

After a delayed flight to Dublin from Reykjavik, we arrived in Ireland at about 1100 and by the time we got to our hotel, it was noon. Our hotel is on O’Connell Street Upper, I think that means we’re north of the river Liffey(?) but I’m not sure.

We managed to get checked in early, thank you IHG status, our hotel is the Holiday Inn Express City Center, nice hotel with the usual amenities but unlike the HIE in the US, this one has a bar which make it even better.

Somehow, we manage to hit Europe and the UK during Pride Week and this trip was no exception. We also seem to be here during the World Cup and, once again, we are. A great mix of people looking for a party and, the Temple Bar (not a bar) was rocking yesterday and last night.

Once we were checked in, we headed for Trinity College to see the Library and the Book of Kells. The Library is about as old school library as you would expect for a thousand year old college. We learned later that the books are not categorized alphabetically or by the Dewey Decimal System but by size, literally, weight. Apparently, the old River Liffey ran under the campus and, there’s some settling that’s still occuring so, heavier books at one end, lighter/smaller at the other. You can’t make this stuff up.

Before we could do much more, we needed to drop laundry off at the American Laundry, drop off service allow you to not waste time, you pay more but your time is worth more when you’r travelling. We’ll pick it up on Sunday. We sent the rest of the afternoon strolling Dublin before heading back to the hotel to clean up before dinner.

For dinner, we chose The Shack, back in Temple Bar. The Shack offers traditional Irish food in a kind of funky setting. The difference is that it’s traditional but well done. The Salmon that I had was fresh and not over cooked. Susan had a seafood pasta which was well prepared and very large, the proportions in general were generous.

We finished dinner about 8:30 and headed back for our hotel, jet-lag was still hitting us both, me worse than Susan, the early light means…I’m awake early, combined with our 0400 wake up call, I’m tired. Drinks to go in the bar and lights out by 2200. Probably didn’t accomplish much today, that’s the way it goes sometimes.

Iceland In My Rear-view Mirror

I would have to say that Iceland was a unique experience but, it’s a certain type of traveler who would enjoy it. It’s certainly a beautiful place but, in my opinion, it’s not for everyone.

If you’re looking to visit Reykjavic on a quick layover, I don’t know if I’d do that. It’s a lovely little city but, you can see it in half a day. If that’s worth the time to you, you should go for it. If spending a day to see a city in 4 hours is worth it in your time budget, it’s easy to do.

If you want to explore the rest of the island, that’s worth it to me. The island is beautiful and if I had time or if I were to ever come back, I’d rent a camper and drive the entire island. Just the little bit that we saw on the south coast to Vik tells me I’d love it.

A couple things that you should consider. First, there is no real summer unless you think low 50’s (10-12 C) with sporadic rain, fog and wind is summer. I’m her in late June and while it may warm up a couple degrees next month, this is about as good as it gets on average.

Second, you need to like to be outdoors. All the better activities are outside. Glacier hikes, trips to volcanoes, trips to hot springs, snow sled tours, everything is outside. If doing these things, in the weather that I described earlier is not your thing, go somewhere else!

Finally, if you’re on a tight budget, Iceland is not your place. Lunch will run you $40-50. A beer is $12, wine is $15-18. Nothing is cheap here. Lots of other places to visit first that are easier on the pocketbook.

With all that said, I enjoyed my visit. The people are very friendly, the speak very good English and, they’re used to tourists. One warning, if you rent a car, make sure you have plenty of time to find a gas station that can handle our credit cards with no PIN. I knew the N1 Stations could do it but, the only one in Keflavik was blocked off while they resurfaced the street. I went to another station that was selling only diesel. Another could not take my CC. Finally, I went to a Bonus station that sold prepaid cards but, because they were near the airport, you could leave ID and fill up then come back and pay. All told, it took me an hour. One last note, as I drove back to the hotel, they were picking up the traffic cones and had I left later, I could have gotten to the N1…oh well, that’s life.

If I haven’t scared you off, pack warm clothes and rain gear and come on up to 66 degree north and have a good time.

Blue Lagoon

Iceland’s Blue Lagoon is a giant money making accident smack dab in the middle of nowhere between Reykjavik and Keflavik in the middle of a lava field. Apparently, 30 years ago they were drilling for a geothermal pumping station when they hit water but, it was salty and it would corrode the existing pipes. The began building a heat exchange but as this was happening a huge pool of bluish-white water began to accumulate and some of the locals began to us it as their swimming hole. Now, it rakes in cash, mostly from tourist like us.

We had the Premium Package which included entrance, robe, towel, slippers and one drink of choice. We also got the green algae beautifying facial (apparently I didn’t leave mine on long enough) in addition to the silica facial. Our entry was for 1000 and we had reservations for the Lava Restaurant at 1300, plenty of time to soak in the magical (?) waters of the Lagoon.

The water varied in temp from pleasantly warm to very warm, depending upon where you were in the massive pool. While there were several hundred people there, you never felt crowded because of the size and, they do limit the number of people because there are only so many lockers available.

We did our visit on the way out from our trip, we leave for Dublin tomorrow on a flight that leaves at 0615, I did not want to make the 35 drive from Reykjavik to the airport that early. We’re at the Hotel Keflavik, 5 minutes from the airport. Because of the early arrivals of flights from the US, many people go to the Lagoon directly from the airport.

Our package cost 77 euro and lunch was expensive but, we were there, it seemed like the thing to do and, lunch was good. I had Icelandic Lamb and Susan had local caught Cod, no complaints.

I must say, it was very relaxing but, there are many public pools throughout Iceland that are either free or very inexpensive but, I would do it again.

Reykjavik

After going to bed last night, it was still light until a few minutes after midnight and waking up at 0400 (it was light for over an hour), today was our day in town and, it’s a small town. From our Airbnb room, it’s less than 10 minutes to the heart of the city. We have simple directions to get back. Up the hill to the church (big), past the Russians (Embassy), turn right. No problems.

At 0400, the sun was out and very bright, I was hoping for a beautiful day but, by the time we got up, it was cloudy and very windy. I saw a t-shirt that said “Iceland Summers Are A Joke”, I would second that, they’re more like the same pitiful day in March in Minnesota.

We had a quick breakfast, not a big deal in Iceland and walked the town up to Hallgrimskirkja a giant Lutheran Church with a statue of Lief Erickson in front of it. The plaque on the base of the statue gives Lief credit for discovering basically, the entire New World. I’ll give him credit for some of that.

Hallgrimskirkja guarded by Lief Erikkson

We visited the Landnamssyningin (Settlement Exhibition) which featured a long house that was discovered while excavating for a new building (they had to move the building). The long house was from around 871 but, they allow for a little deviation, it’s actually called 871 +/-2. Interesting exhibit. If there was much else to do, I’d skip it but…

After a short jet-lag induced nap, we ventured out to watch the England-Belgium futbol match. spoiler alert, Belgium won. The Petersen Svitan (Petersen Suite) is next to and above the Gambla Bio, a movie theater from the 1920’s, this was the owners apartment. Nice place on the top floor, if the weather was ever nice, the roof top patio would be a treat. Good drinks, high prices (welcome to Iceland), I would recommend it.

Dinner was at Apotek which apparently has a reputation for it’s after hours environment, we won’t be seeing that tonight. Food choices were very good, definitely recommend the frites as a side, the aioli was very good. Apotek is located just off the Astervollur and serves many locals. Once again, you will pay premium prices but, if you live in a large city, you won’t be shocked…much.

Back at the accommodations, Spa tomorrow at the Blue Lagoon.

Finally, my friends on the Camino, Katja and the Professors (Chris & Steve) have completed or almost completed their Camino. Katja is in Santiago and I hope she’s partying to celebrate her trip down the Norte and Primativo, Go Katja! The Professors are in Cee and will be at the end of the world tomorrow, I hope it’s as magical as it was for me!

Glacier Hiking on Iceland’s Sólheimajökull

We landed at KEF a bit early, around 0430 (that’s AM) and cleared Passport Control and Customs with no problem. KEF was hopping as many flights from the US land early for connections on to Europe. We picked up our car, which took forever from Hertz and made our way to Reykjavik, almost 50 km away.

Driving in Iceland is a breeze, the roundabouts are a little different and there is no right turn on red. Otherwise, it’s pretty straightforward. I’d printed a map with directions from ViaMichelin and we had no problem finding our Airbnb in the center of the City. We couldn’t check in but they allowed us to store our luggage inside so it didn’t become instant thief bait.

Our excursion today was a glacier hike on the south coast of Iceland and Arctic Adventures picked us up right on time very near where we were staying. I did not know that we were driving to Vik, a town about 150 km from Reykjavik. After not sleeping on the plane, Susan took advantage of the bus time to catch a little sleep, I on the other-hand, did not.

To get to the park, you go through some stark but beautiful country. One minute your in the city, the next, you’re in the middle of nowhere. There are very few trees but there are a lot of wildflowers and lava fields covered with a moss that on minute looks greenish brown, sometimes grey and even a little yellow. There are also fields of a purple flower that looks like a blue bonnet but they’re huge.

Flat lands give way to rocky cliffs and volcanic mountains dripping with waterfalls of all sizes, from trickles to majestic downpours. Because Iceland is basically sitting on at least four active volcanos, steam geysers erupt everywhere and are harnessed for heat and to generate electricity.

Our destination was Sólheimajökull (sun’s home glacier) near Vik, which is a long way from Reykjavik but, it was a beautiful drive. First up was to get geared up. If you needed it, they had rain pants and top, it did not rain but it was all around us and, the glacier is wet as it melts (no global climate change here). We also got a safety harness and crampons, big spikes for your boots.

After a safety discussion, we began our hike to the face of the glacier and through an area that’s prone to rock slides because it’s no longer supported by the glacier. There’s a marker from 2010 that shows where the face of the glacier was then. It’s now about 1/2 mile (1 km) further in. Would anyone like to explain how that may be happening while still denying that it’s happening?

Just before we got to the glacier, we attached our crampons and got a quick briefing on do’s and don’ts. Two biggies: Do make good solid steps to dig into the ice. Don’t spike yourself.

We climbed up and up the glacier, we had an 80 year old Basque man (pictured at the top) with us which slowed us down but, that’s life. He told me he’d also walked the Camino 5 times on different routes. We did not get as far as the blue ice. What you see in the picture is the newer ice (30 years ago) that’s covered with volcanic ash from an eruption. I could have done this all day and, if I ever return, I will.

The glacier from these pictures seems like they’re black which, because they’re covered with ash, they are but, beneath that, solid ice. The ash compounds the melting because of reflecting the suns heat, it’s absorbing it.

ON Sólheimajökull glacier looking further up.

As you look back towards where we’d come from, the lagoon that we walked around is 105 meters deep…for the Americans, about 320 feet, all dug out as the glacier moved down the mountain. By the way, our guide, Maria, a Greek woman was incredible.

About 1500, we left the glacier and headed back to Reykjavik but we stopped at 2 waterfalls that we’d passed on the way in. Skogafoss was majestic and is the outlet from 2 melting glaciers, the volume of water was incredible, all running into the North Atlantic (sea rise).

The second falls was Fimmvordufals and while not as impressive volume wise, it had a beauty of it’s own and, if you didn’t mind getting soaked, I didn’t, you can walk behind it, which I did.

I managed to find a beer and, after being awake for almost 31 hours, I really didn’t need that, the ride back was a bit drowsy as we bumped along on our way back.

Dinner was pizza and a glass of wine, some entries into the blog and at 2130, it was lights out! A great day in Iceland if you ask me. Susan may have a different impression.

Wow sounds so much better than Meh…

We successfully navigated Wow Air, a purported low cost airline serving the US-Iceland-Europe and, I guess it was a little better than Meh. We were in “Big Seats”, coach from 20 years ago but they had a decent recline and a leg rest. We got these because we’d paid for the Premium Package which included a seat assignment, priority boarding, drinks and food. Unfortunately, they’ve just started flying out of DFW and their caterers were not able to provide the meals that we chose. They did give us what they had to sell, we brought our own instead.

The flight attendants were friendly and helpful if not a bit disorganized. And, even after being pestered constantly by an unattended kid, they still managed to smile. The A330 was recycled from some other airline and the overhead compartments were tiny. Still, they managed to get everything in the overhead.

By the way, the 330 is very quiet, I noticed that when I flew to France last your on TAP.

We were on the left side so, this time of the year, the sun never went down, the windows blinds were down the entire flight. Again, no sleep for me.

All in all, Wow maybe didn’t live up to it’s highly exaggerated name but, neither do the other airlines these days. We’ll see how the next 4 flights go. For now, I’ll give them a 7, I like the beat and they’re easy to dance to.

I’m Off Then

My friend Renee is reading the book I’m off Then by Hape Kerkeling. It’s the story of his Camino from 10 years ago. Renee brought this quote from the book to my attention, seems things have not changed much.

“It’s funny, at home you look different on the outside with each new day, yet on the inside you stay virtually the same. Here you’re always the same on the outside, but you change by the hour”.

I am off then, heading to the airport soon to begin my next adventure!

Now I’m Excited

After being somewhat nonchalant about my trip, I’m finally getting fired up. I have no idea why I’ve been so indifferent, I know work has had a lot of my focus. But, tomorrow we leave and I can feel the usual anticipation.

Flying WOW! Airlines should be interesting, I’ve heard both good and bad. We arrive in Iceland at 0445, the sun comes up 2 hours before that and goes down at 0001, about 2 hours of semi-dark.

We go straight from the airport to our pickup for the glacier hike, I hope Susan enjoys it as much as I will. I figure being outside fighting jet-lag is better than sitting around waiting to get in to our hotel fighting jet-lag.

Off tomorrow, more on WOW! and Iceland soon.

Anniversary

Today marks the anniversary of the day last year that we walked into Santago de Compostela, a fitting end to what I now know to have been a very important event in my life.

I celebrate that with three friends that I met last year who are back on the Camino right now. The Professors, Steve and Chris are back in Santiago today on their way to Finisterre. I hope they enjoy that place as much as I did.

Another friend, the last Camino friend that I met while in Finisterre last year is my friend Katja. She started her Camino this year in Santander where she spent about a week walking the Camino del Norte before joining the Camino Primativo (the original route). She just emailed me to let me know that she’s now in Galicia and probably a week out of Santiago. Katja is the Camino Beast. She also has excellent taste in shirts.

Katja with one foot in Galicia and the other in Asturias.

I wish I were there with them!

Rest In Peace

A couple weeks ago, I noted the passing of a long-time friend. The day that I heard about his death, I contacted two friends who were leaving for the Camino the next day, Steve & Chris, a.k.a., The Professors. I asked them if they would carry a rock to the Cruz de Ferro in his memory, they were happy to do it. I think a piece of Texas limestone sitting on that hilltop is a perfect place to focus my memory.

Steve and Chris did this for a person that they’d never met. While I’m not a religious person, Dave was so, Steve said a prayer for him. I think Dave would have liked that, I know that I’m in their debt so deep that I will never be able to repay them but, I will continue to try.

So, for both of you, mis Amigos, from the Aleph and I paraphrase: I promise that if ever a cold wind blows through your life, I will light the fire of friendship for you.