Month: June 2017

I’m both fascinated and thrilled by the people I continue to meet and to know better. It’s quite easy today to become jaded by the negativity that we see each day in the real world but, I’m beginning to question the validity of that assumption or presumption.

I’m surrounded each day by people who for whatever reason chose to walk the Camino. And while we all gripe and complain about this ache or that pain, when we sit down and have our second breakfast or afternoon beer, we’re talking about the things we saw or people we met or ran in to. For me, the Camino has distilled daily life to the basics and has stripped away most pretense.

The interaction between generations on a level that transcends most stereotypes is refreshing. Young and old speaking and listening is quite frankly, admirable for both sides.

I had dinner with a group that had people in their 70’s to their 20’s and I think that we all felt comfortable, as peers. Equal in the sense that we were open and engaged and that we all were interested in one another’s views and opinions. Except in the vacuum that’s created by this experience, those opportunities rarely occur.

I may may have doubled my following, Sarah, Madison and Gregory may now read my blog, I apologize in advance.

Leon, while smaller and not as historically significant as Burgos is still a beautiful city and, the Cathedral has it’s own story to tell. There’s a very interesting museum detailing the history of the area from the Paleolithic era to the current era. As with Burgos and Altepuerca, this area has been inhabited for almost 1M years.

I loved the frescoes in the Church of S. Isadore, 12th century and still in great shape. No cameras allowed or I would have done a YouTube video for the kids at Ben Milan.

Walking out of the city tomorrow, the cities suck the life and Camino spirt out of me but Santiago is now 2 weeks away, it seems like I just started but my friend Leo is already back in Flower Mound.

Can’t wait to see Susan, Leah too. My friends, old and new sustain me. Pictures of Layden make me smile.

I hardly know what’s happening in the world or what day of the week it is and, I hardly care. Enjoying each day as it comes with the challenges and joys that it brings.

Off to to the next town tomorrow, whichever it is. I hope I’m lucky enough to get to continue to share time with my Camino friends.

Still frustrated that I can’t upload pictures.

Waiting to leave, lost L&R so took off on my own, no idea if they’re in front or behind. Seeing others that I recognized, the ladies from Canada. Started cold and clear, perfect walking weather, the rain has passed and the sky is clear blue.

Shortly after I left Terradillos, I started seeing what looked like Hobbit houses. These small buildings dug into the side of a hill were used to store wind, food or other things. The also provided shelter for the workers when needed. They’re not used much now but, it was still interesting.

Marketing along the Camino is interesting. For most Pilgrims, when they hit a town, the first bar is where they stop to eat, drink and rest. If you’re located further along, how do you entice people to walk a little bit further?

Into Sahagun, fought over for hundreds of years by the Moors and Christians, most of the historic buildings destroyed, century after century, there’s still some things to look at. I explored a bit as I was looking for new tips for my trekking poles, the asphalt eats them alive.

Albergue Ladriego, on the far end of town, is kind of funky but Juan is friendly and cool. There is 1 dorm with the toilets and showers across the courtyard. There’s also a weird little chapel here too, kind of odd.

Normal routine, shower, wash clothes, eat and nap. We did have time for a dose of G&T and dinner at the Ladriego was good, no chicken tonight a spicy choriso stew.

Mixed feelings as I cross the half way point. The anticipation of seeing Susan is commingled with the approaching finality. The time off is great, the space to think, reflect and grow is immeasurable.

Jumping ahead tomorrow, no place to stay so we’re taking a taxi about 15km, then walking about 20km.

This morning we left the Sisters, I asked S. Carmen if I could make a donation and she said Si. I gave her 50€ because I was touched by their hospitality and their life stories. S. Carmen reared up and said No!, menos. I asked her if she would please accept my donation, as we say in Texas, she hugged my neck. So, in less than 24 hours, I got kissed by a Nun and, made her cry. A good cry but, but still…

Out of Carrion towards Terridillos de los Templardillos, we faced 17km of a straight, flat Roman road, covered with stone dust to protect it but still raised. The history is incredible. Nothing much to see, there is a pop up stand about half way there that provided a cup of coffee, I’d hoped that L&R would catch up but, I didn’t see them. If the pop up bar is not there, there is no fountain or bar along the way…take extra water.

Terradillos de Los Templarios is a 2 Albergue town, we chose the Jacques de Molay, a comfortable place but very quiet because it was Sunday, the only way I know what day it is. The albergue has a nice bar attached which is good because, there is nothing else around. Dawn and Nallie stayed Albergue Los Templarios, the first one as you come in to town, it looked new.

Our room is a quad but we’re still only 3 and the toilet/showers is down the hall. One washing machine with no dryer, it’s cold, windy and threatening to rain so I don’t have high hopes for everything drying. Shortly after we hung them out, a huge shower passed over…these won’t be dry tomorrow.

Jaques de Molay was the last Grand Master of the Templars, he was burned at the stake in Paris, 1314. The legacy of the Templars died shortly afterwards as the remaining Templars were hunted down and killed. The Catholic Church and French Monarchy thought they were too independent and posed a risk to both. A good book, if your a history buff is The Templars by Dan Jones, I’ve provided a link: The Templars

After a total of 27 km today, we have a very short day tomorrow to Sahagun, 13 km. Supposed to be cold in the morning, around 38/3, I’m hoping it will be dry. Sure wish I had my sleeping bag, I guess I’ll have to take my chances with the blanket on the bed.

I’m not a religious person but I do understand kindness, whatever the motivation. I have been touched by the kindness of Sister Carmen and the other Sisters here. I offered to help wash dishes after dinner, which made them laugh because they had a dishwasher but, it made them happy, S. Carmen said that no one has asked before. She kissed me on both cheeks and said gracias. How do you top that? Gracias to you! Everyday is a delightful surprise.

Going to make the best of our forced jump. During our planning and changes, I went A to B then B to D, skipping a day and too far on a sore knee to make up. It’s further complicated by the lack of facilities in this area. So, taxi from Castrojeriz to Carrion, skipping Fromista. Watching the Pilgrims, I think we all felt a bit guilty and envious. Weird but true.

Staying with a religious order, Casa de Espiritualidad N.S. de Belin run by the Philippine Brothers. Sister Carmen met us graciously and a single room with bath, dinner and breakfast is 38€, a fair deal in my mind. Sister Edith, originally from Cuba but lived in the US for 30 years came out to speak with the Americans, very interesting life. She was born in Cuba but her family was forced to leave during the revolution. She moved to South Florida and then the Order sent her to Columbia to treat addicts. Caught in a cross fire between the cartel and the Army, she was told to leave “before your blood wets the soil”. She returned to the US where she treated AIDS/HIV patients before she retired. An incredible woman.

Icing my knee, then we’ll go look around and I’ll pick up from there.

Walked around town, we often don’t have much time for that. Checked out the iglesia de Sta. Maria del Camino whose frieze depicts the annual ritual of turning over 100 virgins to the Moors. The village prayed for help and a herd of bulls chased the Moors out of the city. Not quite as amazing as the magic chickens in Sto. Domingo but still an interesting story. Had to check out Plaza del Generalismo Franco too. As Chevy Chase would say, he’s still dead.

Met friends for drinks, Mark (Australia), Timme and Denis (Germany). Everyone getting ready for the big Futbol match between Juventus and Madrid Real, not quite the World Cup but it was a big deal.

I am so lucky to be on this journey, the people and their stories are a greater reward than I could have ever expected. I feel very safe here.

Out of Burgos, you enter the meseta, the table or flat lands. While there are still hills, they’re generally rolling instead of up/down.

Miles and miles of wheat and oat fields that are studded with wind turbines. White limestone roads that remind me of Whitney and a natural quiet that is both eerie and welcome. Your footsteps, the wind and nature around you is all you hear.

We stayed in Hornillos del Camino last night at the Albergue El Alfar which was run like a family including the sister who doctored my sore knee in a very sisterly way…many thanks.

Our new friends, Dawn and Nallie are good people and I look forward to spending more time with them, we met early on and have kind of kept the same pace. We could never understand how Dawn always looked so good until they told us that the ship stuff ahead…including a hair dryer. Dawn is a beautiful woman in all senses, I call her the Queen and there is no insult intended. She just has a very regal presence even as she scolds me about getting to a doctor to check out my knee.

Steve and Chris also joined us for dinner, another TX connection who I met way back with Leo and Donna. She is a Professor at A&M and he at Houston Baptist College. They’re figuring out the Camino as they go, just like the rest of us.

Out early today (June 2nd), glorious sunrise over the rolling hills. My knee didn’t warm up as quickly as in past days and I was in a bit of a funk and didn’t want to walk with anyone because of the negative thoughts that dominated my morning.

Finally started to to feel better about 10K in, L&R caught up at Hontanas as did Sarah from Houston/Chicago.

Sarah and I walked to the ruins at San Anton together, very bright young woman that will do well in whatever she chooses to do after Med School in my opinion. Parted ways at the ruins, awesome and I’ll add pics when I can, L&R came in and we regrouped just in time for a rain shower.

Into Castrojeriz with it’s ruined Roman/Moors fortress and 2 significant Iglesias to our home for the night at Albergue Orion run by Sanghui and Dani a Korean woman and Spanish man. Nice, clean, welcoming. We lucked out again, the 3 of us have a private room/bath, Yay! The Pilgrims dinner is Bipembop a Korean rice dish. Much cooler today with some rain.

We toured the church and had the keeper give us a tour, we also got a stamp and left a couple euros in the collection box. We’d heard that northern Spain may have a problem with tropical mosquito borne malaria so, we went for a prophylactic dose of Gin and Tonic at the local bar. We think this is prudent under the circumstances.

Excellent dinner with Nallie and Dawn, wide ranging conversations and invites to visit, I think sincere.

Poor planning on my part requires that we jump ahead tomorrow. While we were planning stages, somehow I have us going from A-B and then B-D. We probably could have made a couple long days to catch up but on sore wheels, probably a good idea to take a rest. By passing Fromista and going directly to Carrion de los Contdes, I hope we don’t lose contact with our friends from SA or Alex who is still in Burgos.

I may may need to see a Doc in Leon about my knee, I hope not. Concerned about doing more damage.