Sarria was a great city and gathering the final 3 (Rick, Paul & Becky) was like a shot of adrenaline. They were excited to be in Spain and joining the Camino. We were happy to see them.
Stayed up later than usual, our Hostel was very nice, the Pension Aqua Sarria. By 10, it was bedtime for the veterans.
Sarria was preparing for the celebration of Corpus Christi, the were decorating the streets with flower decorations, we got to see them as we left very early.
Out in the fog again ann as usual, immediately started a climb out of the valley. Don’t know if the newbies expected it or not but the all handled it well.
Good day in the overcast but a lot of up and down. It became a hard day in the last 3-4K as the sun burned through it got hot fast. All of Spain in experiencing above average temps, again.
Santiago Weiss
Portomarin is an interesting city with a beautiful example of a pure Romanesque Cathedral. It was hard to appreciate the city in the heat.
Mi familia Camino
Our Albergue, Ulteria is nice and friendly but stifling hot and apparently some dog took a giant dump which managed to waft into the Albergue, I apparently was the only one who missed it. Great first day for the newbies no parties tonight.
Having met up with Rick, Paul and Becky, we were out early on our way to Portomarin, first day for the Newbies who were all anxious and ready to go, Paul’s a little slow moving in the morning but our daily early morning climb will wake him up.
Mostly flat today but there are some small hills. It’s me, Paul and Becky out front, L & R and Rick and Ann who’s nursing a sore Achilles tendon, unfortunately my knees warm up and stop hurting until I stop, her tendon does not.
Approaching Portomarin along the river, there’s a long bridge across what is now a lake and up above you can see the Cathedral which is where were headed, it’s always on top of a hill. We climb the stairs up into the new town, the old one was flooded constantly so they moved it. It’s hot again today and we find some shade and a beer as we waited for the others.
As we’re coming in, I spot the Canadians who’s path we cross regularly. Our albergue is the Ultreia is nice and clean. Time to do laundry and air dry, it’s so hot, that should not take long.
We gather in the shade of the cathedral and hang out, Alex joins us and tonight’s family is in place.
Today’s walk was magical, out of Tricastella early and into the fog that we saw yesterday from above as we descended from O’Cebriero.
As we climbed out of the valley, we moved above the cloud layer and into a beautiful clear sky. As is common now, the sunrise was stunning, the shame is that as we’re constantly walking west, these beautiful events are always behind you.
Sunrise in Triacastela
Another descent and I’m now in a cloud forest. Oaks of some sort, chestnuts and some pines litter the way. The air was so thick with fog that it literally rained on me.
The view was was out of a fairytale with the fog blowing through the trees. If you’ve ever been in a heavy snowfall, you know how it absorbs the sound, heavy fog does the same thing. All you hear are your footsteps and your heart beat and an occasional bird, it was glorious!
Alone in Galicia.
Sarria just sort of appears, I rounded a corner and there she was, 22k in a little over 4.5 hours with a breakfast break after about 12k. I ran into the Canadians making the same break.
Ann texted me telling me the rooms weren’t ready, I was just down the street, I covered some ground today. Rooms Aqua Sarria is very nice, clean and friendly. It will give the Rookies a soft landing.
Everyone made it in, even with a train problem. They’re a little awestruck by this little town and trying to get ready for the Camino tomorrow. Short day, they should all do great.
The fog that we saw from above coming in fro O’Cebriero yesterday is sitting on top of Tricastella this morning. So much so that I had to turn off my headlamp because the light was being diffused an actually making it harder to see.
Above the clouds out of Triacastella.
Ann is resting her foot today and we’re waiting on Leighton so I decided to head out with nothing in my stomach but a cup of cafe Americano.
The path out of town started with a substantial climb, in a valley so no surprise there. At about 2k out, the sun started over the hills and we’d climbed out of the fog, the view from above was incredible.
Triacastella Sunrise
As as I continued, we descended back into the fog which made the forest both eerie and magical, something right out of a fairy tale. I separated from other Pilgrims, I had long stretches where I neither saw or heard another person. Only the wind blowing through through the trees and my feet crunching on the path and my poles tapping in time with my steps.
Normally, we have some sort of breakfast and 4-6 clicks later we’ll have our second breakfast, a more substantial one. Today, nothing until 12k, about 1/3 of the way. These light meals are also where everyone catches up both physically and socially, many of us have been walking together for a month and we have a complex web of relationships. This has been the best part of the Camino for me.
As I entered Palas de Rei, I saw Henry, the Pilgrim from Puerto Rico I met on the way down to Molinaseca. That was his first day and he had no food and only a little water so, I shared mine. He told me he’d give me a nickname, I was almost afraid to ask, he told me it was “el angel del camino de la cabra”, the angel of the goat path. I told him I didn’t deserve it but I was honored.
Giant tree as you enter Triacastella.
Cool albergue, the Atrio made with re-purposed materials, they serve coffee and breakfast but nothing else right now. Met up with Ed for dinner, he’s hurting too, feet and knees.
It’s interesting how things work out sometimes, 2 days ago I was hurting and questioning if my knees would hold up. Strange how incedious negative thoughts can be.
After the decent from Cruz de Ferro, I was in a bad way, I blogged about that. I woke up the day before yesterday and felt much better both physically and mentally.
We had 2 difficult days in front of us, the climb to O’Cebrieo an the descent into Tricastella.
The climb was long and hot but I found it to be a great motivation. The first part was quiet, we left before 0600 and we followed a couple rivers that soothed the way. Leighton and I walked together for a fair part of that stretch.
Climbing to O’Cebrieiro.
Somewhere in the middle, I apparently started to pull ahead and did the majority of the climb alone. We’d sent our packs ahead which has been a huge help by taking 16-18 lbs off my knees.
I came across a Spanish woman who was struggling, I offered to carry her pack to the top, an offer that she declined but appreciated. She made it. I saw her again today and she told me her foot was better.
As as we approached the summit, you could feel the change, the air was cooler and the clouds began to roll over the top of the mountain. I think my entire attitude began to change too.
View from O’C back to Villafranca del Bierzo.
Still stiff but but less painful my knees have improved. Less weight or a Camino miracle (not), who knows.
The descent today was more difficult but beautiful and I’m glad I did it. The Spanish cows have some of the smelliest crap but even that couldn’t deter me.
Looking forward to meeting the newbies in Sarria and to sharing this experience with them. Santiago is now 6 days out and that is bittersweet.
Life changing experience, I don’t know. An experience that I will never forget, absolutely. I plan to savor every remaining moment.
As difficult as it is, I have to face that I reaching the limits of the capability of my knees. So, now, I have to figure out how many more days I can realistically count on them before I have to take a prolonged rest.
I’m now 7 walking days out of Santiago and all the days and all the KM before Sarria mean nothing if you can’t do the last 100 km.
Long day today from Molinaseca, a cool town, to Villafranca it was hotter than I certainly expected. As I walked into town, the temp at the Farmicia was 40C or 104F. Our albergue was on the far end of town and across the river. When I arrived, they gave me a glass of water as I waited in the shade. Then…Renee came down the stairs, I thought they’d caught a cab and was very surprised. I had take the route through the vinyards which was longer than the road route. I had no idea how they got past me, I was easily 30 minutes ahead of them.
Tomorrow we have a pretty big climb to O’Cebreiro, our last significant ascent of the Camino. Today, I was hurting, the descent yesterday to Molinaseca really pounded my knees.
I’m sending my pack ahead which knocks about 18 lbs off my knees, it seems small but you feel it. If that doesn’t work, I can only get 1 day of rest before Sarria. I will walk in to Santiago, it may be late but I will be there.
As as I approach the end of my Camino, days of the week are coming back in to focus, I know that next Thursday I arrive in Santiago and I will see Susan & Leah. For weeks now, I had no idea of days or dates and, I didn’t care.
My focus is on getting to Santiago and completing the Camino. My reward is seeing Susan. No matter how much you try to prepare, this is a tough journey and there always seems to be something trying to stop you. There is always, another hill.
Hot day today with rolling hills the entire way and a long climb in front of us.
Still can’t easily post pics, those from the climb up to Cruz de Ferro are some of the best.
As difficult as it is, I have to face that I reaching the limits of the capability of my knees. So, now, I have to figure out how many more days I can realistically count on them before I have to take a prolonged rest.
I’m now 7 walking days out of Santiago and all the days and all the KM before Sarria mean nothing if you can’t do the last 100 km.
Climbing out of Astorga, into the hills once again and towards Rabanal, our resting place for tonight, the Albergue La Senda. A sleepy little town that many just walk through. Hand wash our laundry and then dry it on the line across the street. I think most of us are tired so, when the sun goes down, so do we.
Tomorrow we have a pretty big climb, our last significant ascent of the Camino. Today, I was hurting, the descent yesterday really pounded my knees.
Early start up to the Cruz, left in the dark, as usual. While the Cruz has no spiritual meaning to me, I did carry a rock from home for my grandson, he’s the only one I have so his name is on it. I wish I’d brought one for Grandmaw Jones, she would have liked that.
On the way up, we meet Thomas, a lay minister from NC, in the dark, we have him join us so we can share the light from our headlamps. Foncebadon is our stop for breakfast at the only bar in this broken down little town, it does seem like there is some building going on.
Looking back towards Astorga (lights) leaving Rabanal.
I reach the Cruz de Ferro before the rest and enjoy the place and the people. I took a picture here that had Thomas in it and it was so personal that I gave him a copy and have not really shared it otherwise, this place has a deep spiritual meaning to him and I felt like I had intruded.
Cruz de Ferro. The mound of rocks, maybe 10′ high were carried by Pilgrims from around the world.
The decent into Molinaseca is probably one of the worst on the Camino, very steep but, beautiful. On my way down, I meet a very tired Pilgrim from Puerto Rico, Henry. This was his first day and he was tired, had not eaten and had no food with him and, he was low on water…a lesson here.
I offered him some water and a banana and we just sat and talked a bit. I asked if he would be OK and he said he would and he thanked me for the banana and water. I think the fact that he knew he was not alone was the most help. We parted ways with a wave and a buen Camino.
The decents are killing my knees so, I opted for a cab to Molinaseca from Acebo to avoid the steepest and most treacherous part, sometimes you have to pick your battles. Molinaseca is a beautiful town on a river that they dam up to make a small lake, I could live here, it’s nice.
I’m sending my pack ahead which knocks about 18 lbs off my knees, it seems small but you feel it. If that doesn’t work, I can only get 1 day of rest before Sarria. I will walk in to Santiago, it may be late but I will be there.
As as I approach the end of my Camino, days of the week are coming back in to focus, I know that next Thursday I arrive in Santiago and I will see Susan & Leah. For weeks now, I had no idea of days or dates and, I didn’t care.
My focus is on getting to Santiago and completing the Camino. My reward is seeing Susan. No matter how much you try to prepare, this is a tough journey and there always seems to be something trying to stop you. There is always, another hill.
Hot day today with rolling hills the entire way and a long climb in front of us.
Still can’t easily post pics, those from the climb up to Cruz de Ferro are some of the best.
We had a great off day today, our last until Santiago and we used it wisely, we went to the Spa here in Astorga, the Hotel Via de la Plata and Spa. 1.5 hours of relaxation and, a 30 minute massage on very sore feet, legs and back. But before, we had to take care of business, laundry!
Laundry in Astorga.
While enjoying the spa, there are huge windows facing east and you can see the Camino approach Astorga, down on hill and up into Astorga. It’s easy to think, look at those sorry looking Pilgrims. Hot, tired and hungry. Until, you remember that yesterday, someone else was thinking the same thing about you!
Sundays in Spain are all about family. As the evening begins, the plazas fill with the locals who begin to enjoy their evening. It’s very different than most evening which are dominated by the days Pilgrims.
Plaza Mayor, Astorga.
We went back to our Hotel/Spa and bought a bottle of very good wine and we enjoyed it on the terrace facing the Camino.
We start climbing towards Galacia tomorrow and we come to the Cruz de Ferro, the Cross of Iron on Tuesday. This is where you leave the rock you brought from home, symbolizing leaving your concerns or troubles behind, more on that when we get there.
Saw no one that we knew today, most are now ahead of us and it´s kind of sad. I hope to catch up with a few in Santiago. Only 10 days out now and I can´t wait to see Susan.
Left the Albergue Casa Verde about 0545 and headed towards Astorga. We’re all stoked that we will finally be leaving the road route and getting on trails and yes, I’m even happy to see the hills. A bit over 25k today.
First town of any size is Hospital de Orbigo which is really cool and has legend that says a Templar Knight challenged other Knights to joust to show his devotion. After successfully defending the bridge, he continued on to Santiago. It’s said the the Man of La Mancha is based upon some of this tale.
Come and take it! Hospital de Orbigo
Walked ahead while one the road. Walked with Ann for a while and with Madison, I find the young people to be very fun to walk/talk with. Very smart, very optimistic and yes, a bit naive but we all at their age. I don’t mean that as a negative it’s a phase that we all went through and it’s kind of refreshing.
We all caught up at a pop up place run by a modern day hippie, fresh fruit, juice and water, all donativo. We enjoyed the shade and the whole vibe, set us up for the finish.
Like every other city, entry into Astorga sucked. Hot, long, concrete, railroad tracks and this one included a nice climb into town. I was walking with Dawn and Nallie, Dawn is a real trooper but when she’s done, she’s done. As we walked into town searching for our hotel La Peseta, Dawn told Nallie, “I’m hot and I’m tired and you must find me my hotel!” Fortunately, it was directly in front of us.
Cruceiro Santo Toribio Astorga, in the background, is still a long way!
Astorga though is a charming city that despite what it looked like from afar, is quite compact. We’ll explore tomorrow because we’re pretty whipped and desperately in need of a beer.
Nallie got got checked in first so he had the first beer followed quickly by the rest of us. The hotel is directly across from the Spa, looking forward to that.
Stayed out late for us, all of 2200 but it was good to spend what may be our last evening with Dawn & Nallie, Nigel & Bernie and the A&M kids. Because we took tomorrow off, everyone in now a day ahead of us and it will be hard to make that up. Possibly see D&N in Santiago if they stay anther day.
After a night of partying, not by us but apparently by everyone in Leon, we headed out early while the last of the drunken revellers drug themselves home. We were out early, around 0530 and there were still party stragglers out. We did find an organic Coffee shop, it was worth the stop, it’s going to be a long day.
As you leave Leon, the Camino takes you past the Parador, the one from the movie, The Way. In front is the statue of the weary Pilgrim, I know how he feels.
The Weary Pilgrim
I’ve commented before about entering or leaving bigger cities, it really is a drain on your soul, Leon did not disappoint, about 4K of city streets, noise and concrete.
As we head off for San Martin del Camino (we had to bypass Villadangos del Paramo, no beds), it occurred to me that the time with my Camino family is coming to an end and I don’t know how I feel about that.
Our South African friends, Nallie & Dawn are people that I will truly miss. The same goes for Alex, Sarah, Madison and “G” aka, Gregory, the A&M contingent. I think there’s a good chance I’ll see the Professors again and, I will see Leo again back in Dallas. Nigel and Bernie (Happy Birthday) will be missed as well.
The reunions that occur are now more meaningful, the missed opportunities are more painful and getting word about other far flung friends from other Pilgrims is both good and, sad.
San Martin del Camino is just another sleepy little town along the Camino, deserted by all the young people who’ve fled to the larger towns. Our Albergue, the Casa Verde is nice and the Hospitelero is very friendly and our bed and dinner was 16€. The dinner of potatoes, baked chicken and salad was very good.
Only internet connection was at Los Picos Bar/Cafe which means we had to traipse down there to feed our addiction. L&R especially. While we were sitting, enjoying some wine, a huge flock of sheep were being herded through town, you don’t see that every day in Dallas.
Out of nowhere
Cleaned up after dinner, nothing else to do, off to sleep, tomorrow should be better.
