Category: Camino de Santiago

Posts from my adventures on the Camino

It all has to come from inside

Warning, if you think President Ass Clown and his flunky’s, including Attorney General Bill Barr’s walk of shame to Saint John Church while gassing and beating peaceful and lawful protesters was a good move, please go to another site.

I am a 63-year-old white man who was born in Texas and that’s where I’ve lived most of my life.  If you looked at only my demographics, you may not think that the Black Lives Matter movement would be important to me.  While it would be a stereotype, it is not an unreasonable stereotype unfortunately.  If you did however choose to stereotype me that way, you would be wrong, very wrong.

Sadly, it should matter to us all but, it does not.  In a country that has been divided for political and partisan reasons, in a culture which has become zero sum (if you get something it comes at my expense) and in an environment where it’s now okay to say out loud the hateful things you only thought except around “friends”, racial justice and equality should matter to us all.

We see it all the time, we know it’s happening.  A young black man does not walk through Highland Park, Texas (or many other places) without being “checked out” because clearly, he doesn’t belong there.  No thought given to the fact that he may live there, maybe his car broke down, he’s walking to work or, he’s just out walking.  He should know that he’s being watched, right?  Wrong!

George Floyd, a black man was murdered on live TV in Minneapolis, nothing new, it’s been happening to black men and women for years, don’t forget Sandra Bland in Waller County, Texas.  Pulled over for a minor traffic offense that most of us call “driving while black”.  She was arrested for arguing with a State Trooper.  She committed suicide in her cell after not being able to arrange bail…for a traffic stop.

Some White Americans sit by and say, what a shame.  I always thought that the racial intolerance held by white Americans would subside naturally over time.  My grand-father was a racist, he wasn’t born that way but it’s all he saw.  My father is better, I’m nothing at all like my grand-father and my children are far better than I am.  While I do think this process will eventually work, there’s just not time.  We must confront this now.

If you’re a racist, own it.  No need to keep it hidden, you’re not succeeding anyway.  If you are not but you tolerate racist jokes, racial intolerance or acts, it’s time to stop.  I would rather lose a friend by saying I won’t tolerate those things than to silently let them happen in my presence and being thought of as a co-conspirator, you know what I mean.

One of my daughters and I disagree as to the actions taken by some of the protestors.  Violence and looting, to me, is never the answer, period.  No matter how frustrated you may be, burning down your neighborhood, looting the CVS and generally creating mayhem will not solve the problem and it will definitely hurt access to affordable housing and exacerbate already poor access to local sources of fresh food and healthcare. 

I also think that to a certain extent the aggrieved parties, Black Americans, are once again being used by those with other agendas.

So, I’m asked what is the solution if not violent confrontation?  I don’t have a grand plan, I don’t think anyone does but, burning and looting is not ever a good plan.  So, what would I do right now?  The first step for me would be a simple one, find out if the restraint used on Mr. Floyd is legal and used here in Dallas and Texas generally.  If it is, it should not be and anyone who uses it should be disciplined, immediately.

I would begin immediately on evaluating how to avoid confrontations and how to de-escalate those that do occur.  Cops also have to know that intolerance and illegal, immoral and unethical actions will not be tolerated because often, they still are.  Police officers must also not hesitate to intervene and/or report those actions.  The thin blue line is not there to protect bad actors on the police force.

We must also do away with the “don’t be a snitch” mentality by the police and by any community that witness illegal acts.  Our right to protest is constitutional.  We have no right to burn, loot and destroy or harass and abuse American’s because of the color of their skin..

I gladly stand with those who want to protest and demand these long-awaited changes.  I will work, however I can to find a long term solution regarding police training and necessary legal changes.

For a blog that started because of my preparing to walk The Camino de Santiago, the Way of Saint James, this is also a journey and Way. This Way is to tolerance and change. But the change we need most is a change of heart.  As Jimmy Hendrix said, “it all has to come from inside.”  We can no longer stand by and say it doesn’t affect me because it does and it always has.

BLACK LIVES MATTER!

Always Dreaming

The bottle of wine pictured above caught my attention and my mind was off to the races.  Ever the optimist and always dreaming, I spent some time this past weekend thinking about my return to France and Spain for what will probably be my last walk on the Way.  While it’s given me so much, there are still other quests calling out to me, one of them are countries which begin with ‘S’.

My friend and fellow pilgrim, Ann, and I have talked about going back after we retire to take a slower walk, maybe a saunter, down the Camino.  While driving back from our Huntsville State Park walk with the Professors and Chris’s students, I told her about maybe starting further in France and then walking to Saint Jean Pied de Port before tackling the Camino Francés or, skipping SJPP altogether.

I’m researching two options.  First would be the Piemont Route or Pyrenean Route from Lourdes across the French Pyrenees to SJPP. 

Piemont Route
Piemont Route

The second would be the Camino Arogonés from Somport in France to Puente la Reina skipping Pamplona all together.  Maybe visiting Lourdes before hitting the Camino Arogonés.

Camino Arogones

We also talked about taking it more slowly and travelling more of the side routes.  With option one instead of taking on the Pyrenees in one day, maybe stopping in Orisson for a short day and a new experience for me.  Those of us who have done SJPP to Roncesvalles, we know that getting to Orisson is half the battle even though it’s only about ¼ of the distance, it’s like climbing a ladder.  Option two would eliminate Pamplona altogether.

Besides the side routes, I’d like to possibly spend a day in Pamplona (Option 1), we didn’t do that last time.  I’d skip Los Arcos and maybe continue on to Torres del Rio and push through Logorño to Navarrete.  Or maybe, just toss the book and do whatever we want each day.  Some of my friends’ question if I’m capable of that.  I think not having time constraints will help me overcome some of that need to plan…we’ll see.

I was thinking 8 weeks for this venture but, that all depends upon what Susan says, I have little doubt that she will not be interested in joining us but, you never now.  To quote Father Frank from the movie The Way, “it’s said that miracles occur out here, on the Camino”.  While I don’t believe in miracles…

Fifty-six days on the Camino, 4 days for travel, I like the sound of that.  Ann and I also discussed going during a different time of year, late summer into early fall sounds very appealing.  Watching the seasons change in Spain, especially later along the way in the mountains heading into Galicia sounds wonderful.  Maybe start on my birthday, September 16th with a finish in mid-November.

Retirement is still a way off but, it gives a fellow something to dream about.  More as it develops.

P.s. If you’re interested, John LLoyd, a regular contributor to the Casa Ivar blog has taken his journal and published it along with pictures from his 2018 Camino. I’ve just started it, it’s an interesting read so far and brings back a lot of good memories. Available on Amazon (what isn’t?), the link is to Casa Ivar and some info. https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/go-your-own-way-following-in-the-footsteps-of-martin-sheen-on-the-way-of-st-james.67429/

Attitude of Gratitude

Three years ago today, I left Dallas for a 45 day journey which would change me in ways I could never have anticipated and I am grateful to everyone who made it possible for me to take that voyage of discovery.

I could not have done it without Susan’s buy in and if not understanding why it was important to me, she at least knew that it was important to me.

As a working American, taking 45 days off is unheard of.  I know my European friends think that we’re crazy and, we probably are but, Bob Reynolds allowed me to take this sort of sabbatical and I thank him for that.

My friends, some of whom joined me on my walk across Spain made my trip if not possible, certainly more pleasurable, they contributed to my spiritual journey and it’s much easier training for the Camino with friends who picked me up when I was down, I hope I did the same for them.  Thank you Leighton, Renee, Ann, Rick, Paul and Becky.

Mi familia Camino

I don’t think that most people ever think about all the moving parts there are for a journey like the Camino de Santiago.  We started planning our trip in 2015 and began organized training walks in September of 2016.  Looking back on it, my Camino started then.

When I arrived in Lisbon on May 17th and then Bordeaux the next day, it still all seemed so unreal.  The minute I stepped off the train in Saint Jean Pied de Port with dozens of other Pilgrims, it got very real, very fast.  The first steps of my Camino were the walk in the rain from the station to my first albergue, the Auberge du Pelerin.

I’m grateful for all of the people that I met, Leo, Brian, Chris and Steve, Donna, Madison, Sarah and Greg, Dawn and Nallie, Bernie and Nigel, Alex, the Canadians, Carol and Letena, the two French brothers that I can’t remember their names.  I’m particularly grateful to my friend and spiritual guide, Katja.  There are many, many others.  Thanks to them all.

What brought all this on was an article that I read online out of The Columbian a newspaper in Washington State.  The story is about an 80 year old woman who planned to walk the Portuguese route of the Camino de Santiago and was in Portugal as that country and Spain began to shut down in March, the whole story is linked via the newspaper name.

What struck me was her belief in an “attitude of gratitude”.  She states, “Gratitude makes the world different” she said.  “I know I have become kinder and more helpful.  I’m not getting impatient the way I was.”

In this time of confusion, confinement, and fear, maybe we should all embrace the “attitude of gratitude.”

I’m grateful for what I have and will deal with what comes my way and I hope to do it with a smile on my face and love in my heart.  Thank you to everyone who helped me along this continuing journey.

Remember, be kind every day.

My Talisman

In an earlier post, Resistance, I wrote about the CHG (Country House Gent), Kevin Shelly and his adventures navigating the canals of central England and Wales on his narrowboat, Aslan.  I managed to finish binge watching the remaining 5 seasons (6-8 episodes each) of Travels by Narrowboat and it’s been interesting.  Some in my immediate circle have used terms like boring, silly, waste of time, etc.  To them I can only say if you look at it strictly by what it appears, you’re probably right.

What I see is a man on a quest, seeking a break from life, a new focus, a voyage of discovery that he could not take earlier in his life because of the expectations that life, society and family place upon us all.  Kevin defied those expectations of what “life” and “happiness” should be.  Maybe he was seeking what his life should be.

We’re all confronted with these types of dilemmas and we make the decisions and compromises that we think are best at the time.  Go to this school, take this job, marry or not, children or not.  Life is about compromises, dilemmas, and decisions.

I don’t know one person who has never said at one time or another that “if I could do that over” they’d ___________. In life, we don’t get many do- overs and sadly, if we do, they come with a heavy price of some type.  The CHG had to sell everything that he owned and now lives on his boat doing YouTube TV.  Do I envy him?  I don’t know.  Do I hope he finds what he’s looking for?  Yes, I do.

In one of the last episodes, Kevin is discussing where he’s at and where he’s come from, emotionally and spiritually more than his physical journey.  He said something to the effect that he can’t look back.  To that, I disagree.

While on the Camino 3 years ago, our focus was always west toward Santiago or maybe Finisterre.  One early morning, somewhere past Logorño, something told me to stop and look back and I was greeted with a glorious sunrise that I never would have seen had I not taken a moment to look back over my shoulder.  From that day on, I made a point to stop and look back to enjoy that beautiful moment and I was rarely disappointed.

While it may appear to be so, life is not a linear event, it’s not a straight line or a path headed west.  There was a cartoon when I was a kid called the The Family Circus.  It was about the things that go on in families, especially those with children.  There was always one where the mother would tell Billy, one of the children and the one I identified with, to come straight home from school or wherever.  The single frame cartoon always showed Billy meandering home, taking every side road available until he finally arrived.  That’s life to me.

For me, I can’t not look back because I probably have or will miss something that’s important or meaningful, like that sunrise.  I remember on my final day in Finisterre, the day I walked up with Rick and met the remaining friends from the Camino, they were all looking west, towards home for some, and I was facing east.  Looking for the sunrise on that cloudy day or maybe wondering what I missed, suspecting, no, knowing that I had.

Having a Camino on your doorstep

I mentioned in an earlier post the my friend Nigel had some great pictures of his local Camino and that I’d share them with his permission, he’s graciously given me permission, they’re some great pictures. Thank you!

Sunrise at Smeltmill Bay
Crawfordsburn Beach
Bernie at Crawfordsburn Beach
Helen’s Bay Beach
Coach Road from Helen’s Bay
Coach Road beneath railway bridge
7 – Ballysallagh Lane
7 – Ballysallagh Lane II
Sawmill Woods
Camino sign in Helen’s Tower forest
Helen’s Tower
Bangor Abbey
St Malachy’s Wall 1121 AD

Inspiration

For most of the week, I just could not seem to get motivated to get outside.  I did but, it didn’t bring the joy and relief that my walks normally do.  Whether it was the continuing and overbearing sense of gloom that is our lives during the CV-19 pandemic or whether I was just feeling lazy, I don’t know.

I wrote earlier in the week about an email from my friend Nigel where he described having a Camino on his doorstep.  At first, even that sort of wore on me.  I guess I was feeling sorry for myself, I didn’t have that beautiful countryside just out my door.

This week, I also finished re-reading Walking, One Step At A Time by Erling Kagge.  It was a gift from my friend Katja and one that I will probably re-read again (is that a thing?).  It’s not a particularly long book and it’s not a difficult read but, it is packed with insight and I didn’t feel as if I’d captured enough from it on the first read.

Towards the end of the book, page 157 in my edition, Kagge writes “The ability to walk, to put one foot in front of the other, invented us.”  In context, he was writing about Homo Sapiens having not invented walking, a far earlier relative did.  But walking inspired us as creatures to do extraordinary things, to explore.

Reading that and then thinking about Nigel’s Camino made me think about the many places I’ve never walked in Dallas which is another point in Kagge’s book, walking your city and other cities.

So, this morning, I got up, read the paper and took off to explore my neighborhood and others around it.  Earlier, I wrote about the CHG in his narrowboat discovering a city he’d been to many times and I compared it to walking across Spain and seeing it at eye level and in “real” time, not in a car.

I walked about 5 miles/8km down tree lined streets, through 100-year-old neighborhoods and I greeted everyone that I saw.  Some acknowledged me, others pretended not to hear, one stared at me and a few took the opportunity to expand the meaning of social distancing.  It didn’t bother me a bit as a matter of fact, it inspired me to continue to do it.

Kagge talks about walking and preparing to walk which for those that don’t do it regularly it’s often the most difficult part.  When I first started training to walk the Camino de Santiago, we’d walk what I now consider a short distance and we’d be tired.  As we started, our hearts seemed like they were pounding, we labored to breathe, and we sweat.

The body is a funny thing, if you continue to walk, even on that first walk, the body adapts.  Your heart rate drops, your breathing calms and while you still sweat, especially here in Texas, you sweat far less. We adapt.  Exactly as Kagge describes.

As important, your mind begins to slow down and you begin to hear, see, smell, feel and enjoy your surroundings, at least I do.  I did today on my urban neighborhood hike.  As I walked, my inspiration began to return and by the time I was home, I was planning my exploration of the University Crossing Trail.

In these times it’s easy to get sucked into the vortex of negativity, for me anyway.  So, to paraphrase Hippocrates, if you feel poorly, go for a walk.  If you still do, go for another.

Thanks to my friends for the inspiration and motivation, it came at exactly the right time for me.

Speed Trippin SJPP to Roncesvalles

A veteran member of the Casa Ivar blog, @davebugg, has posted a well done video of Day 1 of the Camino Frances from Saint Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles which includes the full walking video with maps, elevation and incline information (although apparently it only went to 15% when some of it is almost 22%). For the wannabe or the hard core, it’s worth a look. https://youtu.be/RvFCv8aJKcQ

For those who have never done it, the video is about 1.5 hours, my trip took me about 9.5 hours. I hope you enjoy their work.

Having a Camino on your doorstep

Tuesday, I received an email from my friend Nigel. We met almost 3 years ago in a bar in Estella as we cooled down after a long hot day that started in Puente la Reina.  My friendship with Nigel and Bernie, like so many others, sprang from my long journey across Spain on the French route of the Camino de Santiago.

Since our first meeting, we’ve had the pleasure of meeting them in Dublin, they live near Belfast and travelling across the island to the Dingle Peninsula where they acted as very gracious guides and good friends.  We cannot thank them enough.

We stay in touch by email mostly although we did have an opportunity during my Virtual Camino Reunion to see each other as well and to let 15 others reunite, see, meet, share and laugh during these tough times.

In Nigel’s email, he wrote about hikes he and Bernie take there in Northern Ireland, their own neighborhood and right outside their door.  I must admit, I was a bit jealous, my neighborhood doesn’t look anything like theirs.  If Nigel will allow me to, I’ll post his pictures for everyone to enjoy.

What struck me though was the subject line of his email, Having a Camino on your doorstep.  I’d written just recently on the Casa Ivar blog in response to a post that “the Camino is wherever you find it” and Nigel’s email just epitomized that for me.

While Spain, Italy, Germany and really all of Europe have long established and sanctioned pilgrimage routes, really, we can just step outside and begin to walk and we’re on the Camino because it’s about what’s happening in your heart that matters.  Yes, the physical aspect is particularly important, and the mental release is vital, and both contribute to the whole of the experience but for me, it’s wholly emotional and spiritual however you define that word.

I introduced a friend to the Wizard of Oz where Dorothy learned that she did not have to travel anywhere to find what she was looking for; it was right outside her door and all around her.  Nigel’s email reminded me of that, and it reminded me of what my Grandmother told me as a child, you “don’t have to look far from home to find happiness”.

Thanks to my friend Nigel and really to all my friends.  They remind me of this simple truth every day.  In these tough days and the tough ones to come, I will keep these wise words at the top of my consciousness.

Thanks Nigel! 

Observations from the 3rd floor (III)

Looking out my 3rd floor office window today shows me a windy and wet day. The wind is so strong, it blew the top off the covered parking area next door. Fortunately it doesn’t appear that anyone was injured and other than the top, the cars below seem to be undamaged.

Otherwise, what I see is a city still in a lock down waiting for the tsunami of Covid-19 to wash over a city that is trying to prepare but is getting no help from a large portion of it’s residents. Too many people gathering and not enough medical preparation.

Dose Mesas Dallas

The streets, while not empty are very near empty. McKinney Ave. is lined with shops, restaurants and other businesses, most are shuttered now for over 2 week. Many will not survive. Some places are offering take out and can now sell wine and drinks…to go. In Texas, that’s unheard of. Trying to convert inventory to dollars.

Room & Board
Cole at Armstrong
Cole & Armstrong

On a brighter note, this past Saturday, I hosted a Global Virtual Camino Reunion with friends I knew and some I met on my Camino in 2017. We had 16 attendees from the US, N. Ireland, Germany and South Africa. We used Zoom meetings to host it and with that many people it was a bit hectic, it sure was good to see everyone and I think they appreciated the opportunity to free themselves of lock down if only for 45 minutes, I know I did. You take that little bit of good wherever you can find it.

I’ll sign off with what I told my Camino Family : Buen Camino Amigos mios. Os quiero y estad seguros.

If my Spanish is correct and I conjugated correctly it’s Buen Camino my friends. I love you all and be safe.