On our return from County Kerry, we had another night in Dublin. Originally, it was supposed to be a quick stop on our way out of Ireland and on to Germany. Well, it turned into more than that.
Our neighbors in Dallas, ‘G’ and Renzo, told us they were going to be in Dublin while we were there, G’s from Dublin and her family still lives there. The only day we had available was Thursday as we passed through. I’m glad we made the connection, the evening was good craic as my friend Nigel taught me to say, a good time. In the picture are G, Ellen, Me, Susan, Renzo and Kevin. We’d met G’s younger sister Sarah, her husband Shane and their son Tom earlier.
These kind of meetings have changed my outlook on travel, my focus is now more on people and interactions. The places and things are still important but, what would they all be and mean without people?
We started the day by leaving the tourist frenzy of Dingle Town behind us as we headed towards Slea Head and a loop around the peninsula on what was another glorious day, the locals thought it was hot but, today is a little cooler but still mostly clear with some clouds and fog in the higher elevations.
Nigel and Bernie know the area well and we get the best tour in the world, one with very knowledgeable friends. The friends part is what makes it so much more rich.
On the way out of town, we did not stop at the Dingle Distillery but, Bernie and I have made a point of sampling the local Gin, Drink Local! There’s significant history in the area including the Ring Fort and the beehive huts. No one knows for sure how old they are but, there’s evidence of habitation going back 6000 years. Still, the draw is to the left, the ocean, coastline and islands.
The view out to Blasket Island, a now almost deserted island, is beautiful. The island was one of the last bastions of traditional Irish culture, which struggled as much as the residents of Blasket Island, until 1953 when the last of the residents were forced to evacuate due to near starvation. There’s an interesting stop at the Great Blasket Center which tells the story in a 15 minute video. The entry fee is 5 euro but it was free the day we visited (Wednesday).
We continued on and stopped in a small village for lunch, I should have written all the names down but, I didn’t. We walked out on part of the Dingle Trail which would be a great walking alternative to something like the Camino. It’s well marked and has many small villages offering inexpensive rooms. It takes 8-9 days to walk the entire route.
Flowers along the Irish Coast in County Kerry.
We finished up our drive around 1600 when Nigel dropped us off at our hotel, he would pick us up again around 1730 for dinner and music and drinks in Ballyferriter where they were staying.
Dinner was grand but afterwards, we went down to Kane’s Pub or Tigh Ui Chathain (no website although I believe they have a facebook page) which is pretty traditional. Nigel seemed to know most of the people there and after some drinks, we moved to the front room where Nigel and two brothers, Louis/Louie and Vincent joined him.
Nigel played the banjo, Louie the fiddle and Vincent played the most complex musical instrument I’ve ever seen, the Irish Pipes or Uilleann Pipes. Nigel said that they play very traditional Irish music which I wouldn’t know. What I do know is that it was beautiful music and the three of them seemed to enjoy playing it.
Vincent took time to explain his instrument, how it worked and how you can build it up from a basic pipe to the more complex pipe that he had. His brother Louie, build many parts of it including the bellows which provides the air to the pipe. The bellows themselves were a piece of art.
Our friend Bernie even danced for those there, the combination of the friendship (all around), the music and the dance in this small village made this 4th of July one of the best I can remember.
Around midnight, a taxi came to pick us up and deliver us to our hotel. Our friends stayed on a bit longer but they too retired. For me, truly a night to remember. Or, as they would say here, it was good craic!
