Today, you really had to want to be a Pilgrim or maybe, you just needed to be one.
While it was a short day compared to the others, it was one which tested the soul and character of each individual.
My friend Grace and I left Sigüiero around 7:30, a short 16k day, no reason to blow out too early. As we left, a gentle rain was falling with the promise of more and old Santiago did not disappoint me.
With few Bars to tempt anyone ml Pilgrim as you leave town, we trudged on without or morning café con leche through the building rain. Past a still shuddered Aqualada and into a forest which seemed medieval in the mist, fog and rain.
As we walked, the forest path seemed to absorb the sound of our steps and those of a long line of wet and cold Pilgrims.
Walking now for almost 3 hours in a persistent rain and on an empty stomach, a break, any break would be welcome. Ahead, a yellow arrow, a flècha amarilla showed the way to a hotel with a cafeteria, any port in the driving rain was a welcome stop.
Café con leche, heat and a little conversation brightened my mood, my friend Grace too who was so wet she said she looked like a wet poodle.
As we left, sello secured, the rain had intensified and the wind had become steady, it was a full on storm. At one point, we were leaning into the wind driven rain, poncho flapping behind me, my hat secured by my left hand.
For the first time, I was cold. My exposed sleeves were soaked and my hands felt numb as I tried to grip my poles, only 5 more kilometers to go. My traveling companion Grace was as miserable as I was.
Limping on a sore knee, shivering from the damp cold could not deter me, passing the Convent of San Francisco, I knew the Praza do Obridorio was straight ahead.
Next the Parador and then, the Pilgrims center of the Universe, the Cathedral. Last time I saw it in 2017, the exterior was sheathed in scaffolding and blue tarps. Now, the full glory has been restored.
Grace and I savored the moment and The escaped to the bar at the Parador where she was staying, a fitting end to both our second Camino’s.
Not as climactic as the first, the moment still felt good and genuine. I am a very lucky man.