The rain and mist, my traveling companion for the day was waiting for me when I stepped out of the Pension Luis at 0630, searching again for the poorly marked road to Santiago.
Leaving Pontedeume, I looked forward to an early morning Camino wake me up. Except, it’s a 40 minute OMG when does it end wake me up. I had Pyrenees flashbacks but I knew, rationally, that it wasn’t that hard but only because it won’t last for 9 hours. Reason is an interesting concept.
Up and up, through the persistent mist I climbed. The promised great views, obscured by the low clouds. Just keep climbing, there’s always another hill and, there was.
Four Km later, the English Way finally leveled out and the wet asphalt gave way to a forest path and the comforting crunch of the gravel beneath my boots, both comforting and hypnotic.
Even in the mist and light rain, my travel was good. The forested path, hidden by eucalyptus and oaks was lined with ferns, blackberries and wildflowers. All was quiet except for the far off him of the N-651. Again today, after two hours of walking I’d yet to see a Pilgrim since I left the city.
After being deposited on the 11th Hole of a golf course, the Camino finally crosses the now busy highway. It was interesting that Santiago had left a cooler of refreshing bottled water for the thirsty Pilgrims but of course Santiago needs to make a buck too, the offering only cost 1€.
Leaving the course area, the climbing returns as did a bit heavier rain. With water dripping from the brim of my hat, I climbed a rain slick rock incline. At one point I took a long step up with my right leg and pushed hard. As I began to counter that step with my left leg, my right foot lost it’s hold and shot with great force downward stopping of course at full extension…maybe more. Ouch!
A stream of simple and compound expletives flowed out of my mouth for no one but me to hear. Even with the pain I continued up but I knew something wasn’t right, just keep going I told myself.
On the flats, not too bad. Up the hills I could drag my leaden legs without too much pain. But, going down, sharp pain on the outside of my knee radiating down and out with each step.
Limping into Miño, I realized that I was fatigued, I’d not eaten yet and my hunger was masked by the pain and, hungry I was.
Still early on this Monday, not much was open I did however find a café con leche and a tosta con jamon. As I sat, my knee stiffened up and standing took some effort.
The Way into Betanzos included another descent, a steady climb and a sharp descent back to sea level and into the town.
I guess it was luck, I’m in a two star hotel, the Garelos (60€) the most expensive of my accommodations but, I was happy to see it.
After a rest and a shower which included doing my laundry (a Pilgrims life is glamorous) I decided to explore and test my knee, rest seemed to help.
I wrote earlier about being mindful and living in the moment, I wanted to do that because the thought had entered my mind that my Camino days may be numbered and I wanted to enjoy this moment.
They say that every way is uphill in Betanzos, it is, however that means at some point, every way then becomes downhill. In my exploration I proved both to be correct.
I visited the iglesia S Maria, S Francisco and of course, my nemesis, Santiago. All three from the XIV and XV centuries, big, dark, and showing nothing of the architectural revolution happening in France and Italy at the same time.
Limping back to my hotel, I had to have some Pulpo. I found a nice Tapas Bar and enjoyed a deliciously simple pulpo con papas in olive oil, salt and some spicy paprika, marveloso!
I also hit the Farmacia for some Voltadol, a cream containing ibuprofen, it helps.
Between the persistent rain and proximity to the sea, nothing drys so I had to put my clothes through a drying cycle. I told you that a Pilgrims life is glamorous, right?
Chores done, and knee at least not screaming, I went out to have a wine and write in my journal. As a side note, several months ago I decided to re-teach myself cursive writing, at this point, Mrs. Mangum would be very disappointed.
Writing done and cooling off, I needed dinner. I found another Tapas Bar, ONZE. The second best meal I’ve had in Spain. I had a tosta with tuna, guacamole, tomato and arugula drizzled with a balsamic reduction. Damn that was good. My second plate was a half raccion of sautéed squid served with fries, another hit. All of course washed down with a Mencía from just south of here.
Tough decisions to make tomorrow, walk? Don’t? How far? If I rest the knee will it recover enough for walking from León with friends?
I need to make that call in the morning as there are few resources between Betanzos and Bruma.
