Tag: Camino Ingles

Reflecting on my Camino 2019

Due to technical difficulties beyond my control, my website was down for 8 days and trying to restore it from an iPhone proved to be a bit difficult. Basically, an addin when WordPress updated my site did not load properly but, who really cares about why…

As I was flying back home, I began to think about my 2019 Camino trying not to compare and contrast it to my trip in 2017 but, I found that it was impossible to do.

The first thing that struck me was the complete difference in the social structure. On the Camino Frances (CF), you were immediately thrown together with dozens of Pilgrims in Saint Jean Pied de Port (SJPP) waiting to assault the Pyrenees. I met Leo within an hour of arriving in France, not so in Ferrol where I began my Camino Ingles (CI).

Leo being Leo

On my way to Ferrol, I saw no Pilgrims on the train that ran between A Coruna and Ferrol, unlike the train from Bayonne to SJPP which was packed with excited Pilgrims from around the world.

Toto, we’re not in Kansas anymore

I began my walk on Day 1 early on a Sunday and I did not see another person for over an hour and not another Pilgrim for most of the day. By the end of my Day 1 on the CF, I’d met at least a dozen people.

By Day 3, I finally began to meet other Pilgrims on my way to Bruma, first when seeking shelter from the rain at the Meson Museo in Presedo and again at the Hotel Canaima in Meson do Vento. The bar at this hotel seems to be the hub of activity for this entire area.

I finally met a walking partner, Grace from Prince Edward Island, Canada on the 4th day, I’d met a friend of her’s, Pat, the day before. Grace and I walked most of Day 4 and all of Day 5 (in a pouring rain) until we reached Santiago. It was cold, windy and raining so no prolonged celebration at the Cathedral.

Wet and cold, still happy to be in Santiago with Grace from Canada

After the slow start on the social side of the Camino, I was rewarded with a planned meeting with Camino friends from 2017, Chris and Steve Mark and a group of Chris’s students from Texas A&M. This was followed by another 2017 alumni, Leo who met us in Astorga. Old friends, Leighton and Renee who’d caught up with my Germany friend, Katja, showed up as well. Now, I had a Camino Family.

Another difference was the weather which played a significant role in both Camino’s. 2017, pleasant most of the time, HOT some of the time. This year, pleasant rarely, COLD, WINDY and RAIN most of the time. The weather is one of the challenges that you must always be prepared for.

On my arrival in Ferrol this year, it was a beautiful day, sunny and quite pleasant. It began to rain off and on Day 2 and rained regularly from Day 3 on. As I walked from Sigueiro to Santiago, Grace and I were in a pouring cold rain most of the way.

In 2017, other than the first two days and the last days in A Coruna, other than hot, it was very nice and clear for most of the month. The day I walked into Villafranca del Bierzo two years ago it was 40/104. This year, easily 30 degrees (F) cooler.

The final difference between my two Camino’s was continuity. On the CF, I started in SJPP and in roughly 35 days, I walked, almost everyday, until I reached Santiago. Along the way, I picked up friends who for the most part walked the same route at more or less the same pace which deposited us in Santiago at the same time.

This year, as I mentioned earlier, I walked a shorter route, the CI, alone for 60% of the way. While I was prepared for that, it was still a bit unnerving in a way. Lots of time to think, no one to hear me swearing when I hurt my knee but also, no one for moral support as I limped on.

After Santiago, I did get a family and a familiar one as we all got together in Villar de Mazarife and again in Astorga. Walking, being with my friends, old and new was amazing. Catching up with Leo who lives here in the Dallas area was a special treat.

A&M at Albergue Verde

I also got the opportunity to continue to build my friendship with Katja who I’d met on my last day on the Camino in Finisterre two years ago. I call her the Camino Beast as she’s done the CF, twice. Last year she did part of the Norte and the Primativo. This year, she warmed up with us from Astorga to Sarria before heading south to do an alternate route of the Via de la Plata, the Camino Sanabres. I was thrilled to get her introduced to my other friends, especially Leighton and Renee. Camino friendships are lasting friendships, at least for me.

Still a long way to go, my friend Katja from Germany

I guess, what I’ve realized is that no two Camino’s are the same. If you go hoping to recreate or relive a previous Camino, I think you will be disappointed. Each Camino to me is like successive waves in the ocean, each washing over you in a similar but different way.

For me, this Camino stands solidly on it’s own. New experiences, new scenery, new aches and pains, new friends and new accomplishments. All of this tempered by the comfort that familiarity brings. It was only when I let go of 2017 that I could truly enjoy 2019.

Leaving on a jet plane…

Thomas Wolfe said it best I guess when he said, “you can’t go home again“. What he meant was that you can return but, the place you loved and thought you knew so well, will not be the same. But, is that all so bad?

Into each life, a little rain must fall

The rain and mist, my traveling companion for the day was waiting for me when I stepped out of the Pension Luis at 0630, searching again for the poorly marked road to Santiago.

Leaving Pontedeume, I looked forward to an early morning Camino wake me up. Except, it’s a 40 minute OMG when does it end wake me up. I had Pyrenees flashbacks but I knew, rationally, that it wasn’t that hard but only because it won’t last for 9 hours. Reason is an interesting concept.

Up and up, through the persistent mist I climbed. The promised great views, obscured by the low clouds. Just keep climbing, there’s always another hill and, there was.

Four Km later, the English Way finally leveled out and the wet asphalt gave way to a forest path and the comforting crunch of the gravel beneath my boots, both comforting and hypnotic.

Even in the mist and light rain, my travel was good. The forested path, hidden by eucalyptus and oaks was lined with ferns, blackberries and wildflowers. All was quiet except for the far off him of the N-651. Again today, after two hours of walking I’d yet to see a Pilgrim since I left the city.

After being deposited on the 11th Hole of a golf course, the Camino finally crosses the now busy highway. It was interesting that Santiago had left a cooler of refreshing bottled water for the thirsty Pilgrims but of course Santiago needs to make a buck too, the offering only cost 1€.

Leaving the course area, the climbing returns as did a bit heavier rain. With water dripping from the brim of my hat, I climbed a rain slick rock incline. At one point I took a long step up with my right leg and pushed hard. As I began to counter that step with my left leg, my right foot lost it’s hold and shot with great force downward stopping of course at full extension…maybe more. Ouch!

A stream of simple and compound expletives flowed out of my mouth for no one but me to hear. Even with the pain I continued up but I knew something wasn’t right, just keep going I told myself.

On the flats, not too bad. Up the hills I could drag my leaden legs without too much pain. But, going down, sharp pain on the outside of my knee radiating down and out with each step.

Limping into Miño, I realized that I was fatigued, I’d not eaten yet and my hunger was masked by the pain and, hungry I was.

Still early on this Monday, not much was open I did however find a café con leche and a tosta con jamon. As I sat, my knee stiffened up and standing took some effort.

The Way into Betanzos included another descent, a steady climb and a sharp descent back to sea level and into the town.

I guess it was luck, I’m in a two star hotel, the Garelos (60€) the most expensive of my accommodations but, I was happy to see it.

After a rest and a shower which included doing my laundry (a Pilgrims life is glamorous) I decided to explore and test my knee, rest seemed to help.

I wrote earlier about being mindful and living in the moment, I wanted to do that because the thought had entered my mind that my Camino days may be numbered and I wanted to enjoy this moment.

They say that every way is uphill in Betanzos, it is, however that means at some point, every way then becomes downhill. In my exploration I proved both to be correct.

I visited the iglesia S Maria, S Francisco and of course, my nemesis, Santiago. All three from the XIV and XV centuries, big, dark, and showing nothing of the architectural revolution happening in France and Italy at the same time.

Limping back to my hotel, I had to have some Pulpo. I found a nice Tapas Bar and enjoyed a deliciously simple pulpo con papas in olive oil, salt and some spicy paprika, marveloso!

I also hit the Farmacia for some Voltadol, a cream containing ibuprofen, it helps.

la droga del Camino

Between the persistent rain and proximity to the sea, nothing drys so I had to put my clothes through a drying cycle. I told you that a Pilgrims life is glamorous, right?

Laundry time

Chores done, and knee at least not screaming, I went out to have a wine and write in my journal. As a side note, several months ago I decided to re-teach myself cursive writing, at this point, Mrs. Mangum would be very disappointed.

Writing done and cooling off, I needed dinner. I found another Tapas Bar, ONZE. The second best meal I’ve had in Spain. I had a tosta with tuna, guacamole, tomato and arugula drizzled with a balsamic reduction. Damn that was good. My second plate was a half raccion of sautéed squid served with fries, another hit. All of course washed down with a Mencía from just south of here.

Wow!
Simple is better

Tough decisions to make tomorrow, walk? Don’t? How far? If I rest the knee will it recover enough for walking from León with friends?

I need to make that call in the morning as there are few resources between Betanzos and Bruma.

Ups and Downs

Sunday, I left my Hostel at 0615, it wasn’t hot, it’s just that I’d been awake since 0230 and it was light enough to see.

Walking out of Ferrol seems easy but in the city proper it’s very poorly marked and in the semi-light, it’s even more difficult. Once you get near the water, just keep it on the right as you walk around the ria de el Ferrol towards Neda. Anyone who’s done any Camino knows entering and leaving larger cities sucks, you won’t be disappointed, this one does too. At about 3.2k/2 miles, concrete gives was to a natural path and in the early morning quiet, the sound of the crunching with each step was divine. My apologies to the runner who came up behind me and almost got a mouthful of trekking poles.

Early departures are tough, no café con leche, Sunday’s are worse, no Bars open until 1000 at the earliest. I stopped at the iglesia S. Martin de Xubia for a snack (I planned ahead) and was adopted by a Camino cat or, at least she insisted on me petting her and sharing my snack.

I’ll let you pet me for some chorizo

Neda was still shutdown, I finally found a Bar in Fene but no food. The owner brought me a café and a zumo de Naranja which hit the spot. A moment later, a plate of bread and olive oil appeared to my great joy. Once I finished, she told me to come, Ven, Ven. She took me to the back to show me a great view across the river back to where I’d started in Ferrol. Big smiles. I asked for my check and she charged me for the café and would not take anymore. Tips in Spain are rare and small, not today. She wished me Buen Camino (in Gallego) and off I went.

To this point, I had not seen another Pilgrim and I would not for another 4k, what I did see were hills, from sea level, the climb was up 205m, almost 700ft, and climb I did. Fortunately now on natural paths.

Arriving in Villar do Colo, I finally ran in to 2 Pilgrims from France, together but one walked and another rode. We crossed paths most of the way to Pontedeume. Unlike the Francés, you don’t run into the same people on a regular basis.

At the peak, the downhill began, back to sea level, some gentle most steep to painfully steep, it took a toll on my right knee as I limped across the bridge into Pontedeume, happy to arrive (6.5 hours) at Pension Luis (15€). My room was tiny but clean and it had its own bathroom.

Shower, quick rest involving ibuprofen and then off to explore and do laundry. Pontedeume is small with little to see, especially on a Sunday. Families were out and the Bars open but only until 1700/5:00 PM.

Dinner of Filete y Papas, a couple glasses of good and inexpensive red wine and I was done, down for the count.

A good day filled with beauty, solitude and quiet. I hope tomorrow brings the same.

Saint Jean’s Chill Cousin

Unlike Saint Jean Pied de Port which is heaving with Pilgrims most of the time, Ferrol, which is larger, is rather sedate. It’s an active sea port and has Spain’s second largest navel installation but she doesn’t launch many Pilgrims. I’ve met one other, Beata from Cologne and I saw 2 others with backpacks who are probably Perigrinos as well.

My arrival was routine and had I not been so tired, the scenery along the coast and rivers lined with eucalyptus would have been even more beautiful, not too worried as I retrace some of the route on foot the next couple days.

The hostel Almendra (20€) is near the train station and about a 15 minute walk to the port and the official beginning of the Inglés. After a quick shower, I was off to explore and to locate the official beginning so I did not to retrace my steps in the morning. I stopped at the Con-Cathedral to get a sello in time to see them celebrating the first communion for a group of young people. Ran into my new German friend Beata.

Walking back in my pack, my fatigue weighed on me like a leaden cloak which probably contributed to my missing a turn, more steps for a weary traveler. Had I not though, I would have missed this:

Whaaaat?

Back at the Almendra, hungry but more tired, had a beer and some chips, it’s 8:30, time for bed, I plan to get started about 6:30.

The harbor area is lined with bars and restaurants, probably fun on a nice Saturday night like this one, I’ll never know.

Not all those who wander are lost

The title, a quote from J.R.R. Tolkien I think accurately describes my search since returning from the Camino almost two years ago, I’ve been pondering the concept of spirituality and if there’s a place for it or, something like it, in my life.

I feel that I developed or maybe accepted or realized a sense of something while walking my 500 miles across Spain.  I know that it was not a religious conversion as I did not and do not feel any form of greater power, no God.  But there’s something now that was not here before that trek, apparently, it’s obvious as friends and even my wife has commented on it.

As I wander, friends have guided me, some from their perspective driven by religiosity but not forcing a view or their faith upon me.  Others have talked to me about a more universal form of spirituality.  Another has talked to me about the very personal aspect of spirituality.

A friend sent me a quote from the Dalai Lama which resonated with me: “Love and compassion are the universal religion.  You don’t need churches or temples to practice it.  You don need to have religion or faith.  It’s sufficient if you just try to be a human being with a warm heart”.  To that, I’d have to say amen Brother.

In my research, maybe my quest for understanding, I came across several definitions of spirituality and most were very similar, I think this one sums up my current feeling about it:

“the quality of being concerned with the human spirit or soul as opposed to material or physical things”.

Even if I have not always been able to show it, I believe that I’ve always been a person who was concerned about others even in a world where it  appears that so many don’t care about anything or anyone if it does not benefit them personally.  To me, that’s a sad state.  I think and I hope that I displayed this along the Camino and that this may be catalyst for my quest.

As I’ve searched and read pieces on spirituality, I found one from the Earl E. Bakken Center for Spirituality and Healing at the University of Minnesota, https://www.takingcharge.csh.umn.edu/what-spirituality.  I had never really connected spirituality and healing.  What I found most appealing are the concepts of Mindfulness, Meaning, Connection and Safety.  At one time or another, all of these have passed through my mind as I pondered my feelings about spirituality.

Currently, I’m very focused on Mindfulness and Connection, aspects that I experienced first hand every day while on my pilgrimage.  The concept of mindfulness is something that I’ve been aware of almost all my life and I acquired it when I learned to meditate 45 years ago while in High School.  Surprising to some, I’ve quietly and privately continued this practice to this day.

Connection is another aspect which I experienced everyday while walking.  The friends you came with or that you met there.  You saw them everyday or, only once but, they managed to become your family, people you were concerned about and missed.  This phenomenon is apparently quite common as it’s talked about by pilgrims all the time and discussed regularly on Blogs dedicated to the Camino.

My Way opened my eyes to so much more of the world.  I’ve been places, experienced things and met people but, it was always gone rather quickly.  The Camino experience and living in the moment, being connected to these people made me feel very safe, very comfortable.  And, for those 35 days, I felt there was a meaning, even if I don’t to this day understand exactly what it is or was.

I now have friends from around the world that I miss seeing, we stay in touch via email or Skype as we can.  My friend Katja is like one of my oldest friends now and I can’t imagine not hearing about her life, travels, job woes and her budding writing project.

I think of my friend Alex and his personal growth.  I worry about Henry from Puerto Rico who’s home town of San Juan was decimated by a hurricane shortly after he returned home from his Camino.

Last year, Susan and I travelled to Ireland to visit Bernie and Nigel a wonderful gift. A side benefit was meeting our actual neighbors, G and Renzo in Dublin where G’s from and her family still lives there.  Meeting her sisters and their family created as stronger connection to our neighbors and friends.

I’ve always had a large group of friends but suddenly I value my connection to them even more, it offers me a safe place when it’s difficult.  And certainly, I have a new and more complex need for my family, children and wife Susan.

So, am I spiritual?  By some definitions, no.  By others, yes.  But other’s definitions don’t concern me.  By my definition, I would have to say yes.  But I don’t know why or how I’ve become this way, maybe I always was but not able to see it or, I rejected it because I was told that spirituality required faith in a God.

For whatever reason, this is where I am at this moment in my life.  I look forward to my return to the Camino, this time the shorter English Way and the opportunity to focus on only that moment, that place and those people.  When I return home, I will strive to do the same.  Wherever I am, I hope to continue my spiritual journey, wherever it takes me.

More to come…