Sunday, I left my Hostel at 0615, it wasn’t hot, it’s just that I’d been awake since 0230 and it was light enough to see.
Walking out of Ferrol seems easy but in the city proper it’s very poorly marked and in the semi-light, it’s even more difficult. Once you get near the water, just keep it on the right as you walk around the ria de el Ferrol towards Neda. Anyone who’s done any Camino knows entering and leaving larger cities sucks, you won’t be disappointed, this one does too. At about 3.2k/2 miles, concrete gives was to a natural path and in the early morning quiet, the sound of the crunching with each step was divine. My apologies to the runner who came up behind me and almost got a mouthful of trekking poles.
Early departures are tough, no café con leche, Sunday’s are worse, no Bars open until 1000 at the earliest. I stopped at the iglesia S. Martin de Xubia for a snack (I planned ahead) and was adopted by a Camino cat or, at least she insisted on me petting her and sharing my snack.
Neda was still shutdown, I finally found a Bar in Fene but no food. The owner brought me a café and a zumo de Naranja which hit the spot. A moment later, a plate of bread and olive oil appeared to my great joy. Once I finished, she told me to come, Ven, Ven. She took me to the back to show me a great view across the river back to where I’d started in Ferrol. Big smiles. I asked for my check and she charged me for the café and would not take anymore. Tips in Spain are rare and small, not today. She wished me Buen Camino (in Gallego) and off I went.
To this point, I had not seen another Pilgrim and I would not for another 4k, what I did see were hills, from sea level, the climb was up 205m, almost 700ft, and climb I did. Fortunately now on natural paths.
Arriving in Villar do Colo, I finally ran in to 2 Pilgrims from France, together but one walked and another rode. We crossed paths most of the way to Pontedeume. Unlike the Francés, you don’t run into the same people on a regular basis.
At the peak, the downhill began, back to sea level, some gentle most steep to painfully steep, it took a toll on my right knee as I limped across the bridge into Pontedeume, happy to arrive (6.5 hours) at Pension Luis (15€). My room was tiny but clean and it had its own bathroom.
Shower, quick rest involving ibuprofen and then off to explore and do laundry. Pontedeume is small with little to see, especially on a Sunday. Families were out and the Bars open but only until 1700/5:00 PM.
Dinner of Filete y Papas, a couple glasses of good and inexpensive red wine and I was done, down for the count.
A good day filled with beauty, solitude and quiet. I hope tomorrow brings the same.